Does Anyone Still Make A Garden Tractor
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A-1 Miller's Catalog of Small Engine Parts, Lawn & Garden Engines, Garden Tractor Competition Pulling Engines, Header Pipe Kits, Rebuild and Repair Services
Prices are subject to change without notice. FYI - All of the aftermarket parts that I offer in my websites are of very high quality and come with an unconditional guarantee. I would not be advertising this if it weren't true. Actually, they're just as good or better than most OEM Kohler parts. Scroll down the website or click the links below...
Governor Springs, Throttle and Choke Linkages and Bushings, Throttle Cable Clamps, Throttle Cable Assemblies and High Quality Universal Foot/Gas Pedal Kit | Internal Engine Rebuild Parts (Gaskets | Oil Seals | Pistons and Rings | Connecting Rods | Rod & Main Bearings | OEM Size and Oversize Valves | Valve Guides | OEM Kohler Cylinder Heads) | Valve Seat Cutter Kits, Stock Size Valves, Oversize Valves, Valve Springs | Performance Camshafts | Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs, Oil Filter Adapter Kit, Oil Filters and OEM Kohler Cast Aluminum and Cast Iron Oil Pans | Solid Motor Mounts for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" Garden Tractors |
Engine Rebuilding and Custom Engine Build-up Services for General Lawn & Garden Equipment, Go-Karts, King Midget, Older Small All Terrain Vehicles, Older Snowmobiles, etc. | Competition Pulling Engine Freshening Service and Competition Pulling Engine Building (All engines are built 100% legal according to your updated pulling association/clubs' sanctioning rules and requirements.) | A-1 Miller's Professional Valve Repair Service for Kohler Engine Model K361 Cylinder Head | Exhaust Header Pipes, Flanges and Kits | Machine Shop Fabricating and Repair Services |
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price.
Governor Springs, Bushings, Links, Linkages, Throttle Cable Clamps, Throttle Cable Assemblies and Governor Gear Assemblies and Related Parts [Top of Page]
Throttle Stabilizer/Anti-Surge Springs. Install either of these lightweight springs connect between the governor lever and throttle lever to remove free play (looseness) in the linkage end connections to reduce erratic engine behavior at top governed speed due to throttle flutter for a smoother running engine and reduce wear to throttle shaft. Can be used on virtually any Briggs & Stratton, Kohler K-series, Magnum or Command single- or twin-cylinder cast iron or aluminum block engine. May need to drill a small hole with chamfered edges in either lever close to linkage connection to install spring. A must for a generator, welder or a 4,000 RPM± governed competition pulling engine. With a governed pulling engine, throttle flutter causes the engine RPM to momentarily spike, which will cause the rear tires to temporary lose traction (jerk), resulting in a possible shorter distance pull. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of product for a governed pulling engine.
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Governor Spring to regulate and maintain safe engine RPM. Designed for later Kohler engine model K181 with specification numbers 301000-301045, and various Kohler Magnum engine model M8 with specification numbers 301500-301651. Approximately 4-1/2" overall length. OEM Kohler part # 41 089 12-S. $7.65 each, plus shipping & handling. |
26 Coil Governor Spring to regulate and maintain safe engine RPM. Designed for most Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Used in Cub Cadet models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 149, 169, 1050, 1204, 1210 and 1211. This particular spring can also be used on various Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M18 and M20. Because all these engines listed use the same governor gear assembly. 2-5/8" overall length. Go here to learn how to set the engine governor RPM speed on a single cylinder Kohler K-series or Magnum engine. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 45 091 01-S, 52 091 04-S and 52 091 06-S 23 coil (2-7/16" length) governor spring. OEM Kohler part # 235496-S. $11.60 each, plus shipping & handling. 34 Coil Extended-Length Governor Spring to regulate and maintain safe engine RPM. Designed for Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and certain Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. Used on Cub Cadet models: 680, 1000, 1200, 1210, 1250, 1282, 1450 and 1650; John Deere AQS (Quiet Line) models, and other makes and models of garden tractors or small engine equipment. Most common for general lawn and garden use. 8" overall length. Go here to learn how to set the engine governor RPM speed on a single cylinder Kohler K-series or Magnum engine. OEM Kohler part # 47 091 01-S. $13.40 each, plus shipping & handling. |
23 Coil Extended-Length Governor Spring to regulate and maintain safe engine RPM. Designed for various Kohler KT-series and Magnum opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M18 and M20. 23/64" O.D. x 5" overall length. Used and in excellent condition. Not distorted or stretched-out. Discontinued Kohler part # 52 091 05-S. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) |
New Style Nylon Throttle Link Retaining Bushings listed below. Each fits Kohler engine models M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, CH11, CH12.5, CH13, CH14, CH15, CH16, CH18, CH20, CH22, CH25, CH410, CH430, CH450, CH5, CH620, CH621, CH640, CH641, CH670, CH680, CH730, CH735, CH740, CH745, CH750, CH940, CH960, CH980, CH1000, CV11, CV12.5, CV13, CV14, CV15, CV16, CV18, CV20, CV22, CV25, CV430, CV450, CV460, CV493, CV620, CV640, CV670, CV680, CV730, CV740, CV745, CV750, CV940, CV960, CV980, CV1000, ECV740, ECV749, ECV850, ECV860, ECV870, ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, ELH775, KS530, KS540, KS590, KS595, KT600, KT610, KT620, KT715, KT725, KT730, KT735, KT740, KT745, LH630, LH640, LH685, LH690, LH750, LH755, LH775, LV680, PCV850, PCV860, SV470, SV471, SV480, SV530, SV540, SV541, SV590, SV591, SV601, SV620, SV710, SV715, SV720, SV725, SV730, SV735, SV740, SV810, SV820, SV830, SV840, TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710, ZT720, ZT730 and ZT740 with a Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetor or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor with 3/16" hole in governor lever and throttle lever and without integrated ball on throttle lever.
NOTE: The push-on self-locking retaining clip/ring (part # 25 141 03-S) shown to the right for the .080" diameter throttle link is no longer available from Kohler. Use the black or translucent clamp-on nylon bushings listed above as a perfect replacement. |
Throttle Link. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91 with a 3/32" hole in governor lever and throttle lever. Dimensions: .080" diameter x 1-5/8" overall length. OEM Kohler part # 220380-S. $13.90 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Old Style Throttle Link. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and certain Kohler Magnum M8 with a 3/32" hole in governor lever and throttle lever. Dimensions: .080" diameter x 2-1/2" overall length. OEM Kohler part # 230078-S. $13.45 each, plus shipping & handling. |
New Style Throttle Link. Fits Kohler Magnum engine model M8 with a 3/16" hole in governor lever and throttle lever. Use with new style nylon throttle link retaining bushings listed above. Dimensions: .080" diameter x 2-1/2" length. OEM Kohler part # 25 079 01-S. $15.90 each, plus shipping & handling. |
New Style Throttle Link. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 with Carter/Kohler or Walbro carburetors with a 3/16" hole in governor lever and without ball integrated with throttle lever. Use with new style nylon throttle link retaining bushings listed above. Dimensions: .080" diameter x 3" length. OEM Kohler part # 47 079 11-S. $8.75 each, plus shipping & handling. |
New Style Throttle Link. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 and KT19 Series II M18 and M20 with a 3/16" hole in the governor lever and throttle lever. Most commonly used on the M18 and M20 model engines. Use with new style nylon throttle link retaining bushings listed above. OEM Kohler part # 52 079 11-S. $14.90 each, plus shipping & handling. |
AQS "Quiet Line" Choke Linkage. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. OEM Kohler part # . $8.70 each, plus shipping & handling. |
3/16" E-Clip Retainer. Fits early style 3/16" throttle link rod used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341 and K361.
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Early Style 3/16" Throttle Linkage Rod. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341 and K361. OEM Kohler part # 235277-S.
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New 3/16" Throttle Ball Joint w/Integrated Ball/Threaded Stud. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341 and K361 with early style throttle link/rod. 10-32 UNF male and female threads. Fits Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors without ball integrated with throttle lever. Can also be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. 10-32 UNF male and female threads. NOTE: Apply motor oil inside ball joint to reduce wear and for smoother throttle operation.
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Early Style Throttle Quick Disconnect/Snap-On Ball Joint Body. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. Commonly used on K-series AQS (Quiet Line) engines. Fits Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with ball on throttle lever. Can also be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. 10-32 UNF female threads and accepts 1/4" diameter ball. NOTE: Apply motor oil inside ball joint body to reduce wear and for smoother throttle operation. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 45 208 03-S. $8.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Throttle Ball w/Threaded Stud for Quick Disconnect/Snap-On Ball Joint Body listed above È used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. . Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors with 3/16" hole in throttle lever. 1/4" diameter ball x 10-32 UNF threads. Includes nut and lock washer. Can also be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. NOTE: Apply motor oil inside ball joint to reduce wear and for smoother throttle operation. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 48 194 01-S. Replaced with Kohler part # 237130-S (ball joint w/integrated ball). $4.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Quick Disconnect/Snap-On Throttle Ball Joint Assembly for Carter/Kohler or Walbro carburetor used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361 with 3/16" hole in throttle lever. 10-32 UNF male and female threads. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors without ball integrated with throttle lever. Can also be used on mini rods, hot rods, race cars, etc. NOTE: Apply motor oil inside ball joint body to reduce wear and for smoother throttle operation. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 45 208 03-S and 48 194 01-S. $13.00 per assembly, plus shipping & handling. |
Early Style Throttle Rod (Linkage) with Quick Disconnect/Snap-On Ball Joint and E-Clip Assembly. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. Commonly used on K-series AQS (Quiet Line) engines. Assembled with Kohler part #'s 235277-S (rod), X-70-3 (nut), 45 208 03-S (ball joint body) and 235278-S (e-clip). Most of these parts are discontinued from Kohler. High quality aftermarket. $20.00 per assembly, plus shipping & handling. |
Snap-On Throttle/Choke Cable Clip (Clamp). Use to secure throttle or choke cable conduit to extended OEM Kohler angled bracket on various Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341, M10, M12, M14, M16, K482, K532 and K582. OEM Kohler part # 235603-S. $4.80 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Dual Conduit Throttle/Choke Cable Clamps. Can be used instead of clamp listed above for better security. Use to secure one or two 3/16" or 7/32" diameter cable conduit(s) to throttle or choke bracket. Each made of heavy gauge zinc-plated steel.
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Loop-Type Cable/Wire/Hose Clamps. Use to secure throttle or choke cables, or for safe routing of electrical wire(s), battery cable, small remote fuel primer hose or bundle of wires along frame. Each requires 3/16" mounting screw.
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Speed Control Bracket/Lever with 15/64" / 6mm hole for throttle swivel assembly (listed above). Commonly used on most Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341 with the round-shaped air cleaner assembly. OEM Kohler part # 235086-S. $4.75 each, plus shipping & handling. Speed Control Bracket/Lever with yoke, for use with a grooved end speed-adjustment screw (discontinued Kohler part # 237574-S). Sets engine RPM at desired/fixed position. Used on various Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341 with the round-shaped air cleaner assembly connected to a generator/welder, water pump, etc. OEM Kohler part # 236413-S. $10.70 each, plus shipping & handling. |
7/32"-1/4" Governor Cross Shafts. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. New shaft includes thrust washer. Steel spacer for this shaft (part # 25 112 17-S) no longer available from Kohler. The lever on these rarely break off. NOTE: Before installing, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on shaft for smooth governor action and less wear to shaft and/or bushing. OEM Kohler part # 230540-S.
Steel Spacer Washer. Fits all Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. Used on governor cross shaft listed above. Butts against governor cross shaft bushing (listed below) to maintain proper alignment of lever on cross shaft with button on governor gear.
1/4" Diameter Governor Cross Shafts. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. New shaft includes steel spacer. NOTE: The lever on these sometimes break off. So it'll be a good idea to weld the lever to the shaft. And the entire engine must be completely disassembled to replace this part. And before installing, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on shaft for smooth governor action and less wear to shaft and/or bushing. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 237455 (cross shaft with groove and E-clip instead of spacer to the right). OEM Kohler part # A-235256-S.
Steel Spacer. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Used on governor cross shaft listed above. Butts against governor cross shaft bushing (listed below) to maintain proper alignment of lever on cross shaft with center button on governor gear. Dimensions: .260" I.D. x .372" O.D. x 13/16" length.
Governor Cross Shaft End Bearing (Tiny Steel Bushing w/Blind Hole). Fits various Kohler engine models K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 and K341/M16 with machined through-hole in block for end of governor cross shaft. OEM Kohler part # 234866-S.
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Kohler Governor Cross Shaft Bushings with Rubber Lip Oil Seal or Neoprene Rubber O-Ring Installed. Seal or O-ring fits snug in bushing and on shaft, and has no effect with operation of governor function whatsoever. WHY THIS IS IMPORTANT: On single cylinder Kohler engines, vacuum within the crankcase created by the upward stroke of the piston draws in outside air, along with a small amount of dust, dirt/debris, through the governor bushing and shaft, then pressure within the crankcase created by the downward stroke of the piston blows out a fine mist of crankcase oil through the bushing and shaft. Overtime, the dust, dirt/debris of this repeated reciprocating action cause the bushing (and sometimes the shaft, too) to wear, which creates a thin film oily mess on the outside of the engine block. IMPORTANT: When removing the old bushing, use caution not to drop the governor cross shaft down inside the crankcase! (Complete disassembly of the engine will be required if this happens.) And before installing any new oil seal or rubber O-ring, always apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal or O-ring and on shaft to keep seal or O-ring lubricated and cool until crankcase oil can reach it. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will wear away from friction, possibly causing an oil leak. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of product or service. Governor Cross Shaft Bushing with 7/32" hole. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181 w/specification # 30100-30848 and various early M8 engines with V-shaped/coiled governor spring behind bushing. NOTE: When ordering, please specify engine model and specification numbers. Discontinued Kohler part # 230476-S.
Governor Cross Shaft Bushing with 7/32" hole. Fits Kohler engine model K181 w/specification # 301000-301045, and various later M8 engines with coiled extension governor spring. NOTE: When ordering, please specify engine model and specification numbers. OEM Kohler part # 41 158 02-S.
Governor Cross Shaft Bushing with 1/4" hole. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Discontinued Kohler part # 235476-S.
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Thrust Washers for Governor Gear Assemblies. A thrust washer is required to prevent the governor gear from wearing against the engine block when the governor gear is under full pressure from the engine running at higher RPMs. Many people are not aware of this small, thin washer because it may appear to be part of the engine block, and it usually falls out and gets lost while cleaning inside the block. IMPORTANT: Due to high RPM and pressure of the governor gear upon engine start-up, before installing, lubricate the stub shaft and thrust washer with motor oil, automotive chassis lube or wheel bearing grease to prevent the governor gear from wearing until the crankcase oil reaches these areas.
Governor Gear Stub Shafts. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Dimensions of each part listed below: 3/8" diameter x .625" length. Each is press-fit into block. NOTE: Drive in the stub shaft until .345" (11/32") protrudes from the block.
Governor Gear Stub Shafts. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 and all KT-series and Magnum opposed twin cylinder engines. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 7/8" length. Each is press-fit into block. NOTE: Drive in each stub shaft until .345" (11/32") protrudes from the block.
1-1/8" Steel Welch Plugs to block access to governor gear stub shaft. Concave/dish-shaped, not cup-shaped. Expands and flattens out with medium size ball peen hammer when installed in counterbore hole with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant.
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Throttle and Choke Cable Assemblies, and High Quality Universal Foot/Gas Pedal Kit | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Universal-Fit Replacement Choke or Throttle Control T-Handle. Replace damaged or missing OEM ball-shaped knob or T-handle for more comfortable operation of in-dash or panel-mounted choke or throttle cable control lever. Made of tough, durable plastic. Push-on or use small hammer to install. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. | |
Lever-Action Solid Wire Remote Throttle Control Cable Assemblies. Side mount. Fits Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127 and 147.
Lever-Action Solid Wire Remote Throttle Control Cable Assemblies. Panel mount. Fits virtually all wide and spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors Cub Cadet garden tractors Cub Cadet models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650.
Throttle Control Cable Assembly. Panel mount. Fits Cub Cadet models 582, 1050, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1710, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872 and 2072. OEM Cub Cadet part # 746-3002. $44.20 each, plus shipping & handling. | |
Push/Pull Solid Wire Remote Choke Control Cable Assemblies. Fits all narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors.
Push/Pull Solid Wire Remote Choke Control Cable Assemblies. Fits all wide and spread frame Cub Cadet garden tractors.
Choke Control Cable Assembly. Fits Cub Cadet models 482, 682, 782, 784, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812 and 2072. OEM Cub Cadet part # 746-3001. $47.55 each, plus shipping & handling. Choke Cable Control Assembly. Fits: 580, 582, 1604 and 1606. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # 746-3004. | |
Throttle Swivel Kits for use with Solid/Stranded Wire Throttle Cables. Use to secure throttle wire to speed control bracket/lever (listed below) for a stock/governed Kohler engine or to secure stranded wire throttle cable to throttle lever on Carter/Kohler carburetor for a competition pulling engine. Each can also be used on competition garden pulling tractors, go-karts, older small all terrain vehicles, etc. Each kit includes wire swivel, screw and friction washer, and require a 15/64" / 6mm hole.
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Speed Regulating Disc with 15/64" / 6mm hole for throttle swivel assembly (listed above). Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. To be used with a foot pedal throttle cable control (listed below) on stock competition garden pulling tractors, go-karts, older small all terrain vehicles, etc. Fabricated A-1 Miller's part; replaces discontinued Kohler part # 41 274 10-S. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. | |
High Quality Universal Foot/Gas Pedal Kit. Use on a general lawn and garden tractors, older small all terrain vehicles, competition pulling tractors, self-propelled tractor pulling sleds, etc. Easy to install on foot rest/support/running board of a garden tractor and adjust the cable setting to the carburetor. Durable aluminum and steel construction. Kit includes: 43" metal conduit housing x 48" stranded wire inner cable (commonly used) and two cable housing clamps. $46.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Top of Page] High Quality Heavy Duty Replacement Throttle Control Cable Assemblies for Universal Foot/Gas Throttle Pedal Assembly.
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Tachometers and Tachometer Kits | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
High Quality Inductive Handheld Small Engine Wireless Tachometer. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. For gas/spark ignite engines only. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. Very accurate. This handheld analog tachometer works great for checking/setting the RPM on various small engines in the shop, and/or for checking/setting the RPM [tech] on stock governed competition pulling engines. Hold sensor (antenna) close to spark plug wire for reading. Operates off a self-contained replaceable 9 volt battery. Has built-in battery voltage check. Reads up to 5,000 RPM on the low scale, and 15,000 RPM on the high scale.
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High Quality Inductive Small Engine Tachometer/Hour Meter. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Very accurate. Can be hand-held to temporarily set engine RPM or can be surface-mounted and secured with two screws. mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. Large 3/8 inch LCD display. Works with all spark ignition engines by selecting engine type using S1 and S2 buttons. Works with magneto and battery-powered ignition systems. If tachometer does not turn on automatically as soon as engine starts, press and hold the two buttons at the same time. Instructions included. Tachometer reads up to 99,999 RPM. Hour meter reads up to 9999:59 hours/minutes then resets to Zero. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Can be manually reset to Zero hours. Programmable maintenance hour setting with service icon, a reminder when to change oil or other service. Easy installation: Single wire wraps around spark plug wire and secured with two supplied nylon zip-ties. No wire terminal connections required. Dimensions: 2" wide x 1-3/4" depth x 3/4" height.
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High Quality Digital Tachometer/Proximity Sensor Kits. A tachometer is required in setting the correct RPMs (normally 3,200 or 3,600 maximum for small engines) of an engine to prevent from over-revving and possible damage to the engine or dangerous flywheel explosion. Choice of a RED or BLUE numeric display. Will work with most small engines or multi-cylinder automotive engines, gas or diesel. The great thing about this type of tachometer is it needs no setup. It displays accurate RPMs as soon as the engine cranks over to start. Displays up to 9,999 RPM. Very accurate. Tachometer returns to zero [0000] when engine is shut down. Operates totally independent of the ignition system. Can be used for lawn & garden equipment or competition pulling engines. Designed to be permanently mounted to monitor engine RPM at all times. Tachometer can be in-dash or panel-mounted. This precision digital tachometer operates with external power and on the same principle as my flywheel- or crank-trigger ignition systems with a proximity sensor to detect the target, which can be a small ferrous steel screw or pin, or magnet in a rotating disc on the crankshaft or on/in flywheel. A sturdy steel or aluminum bracket will need to be fabricated by customer to mount the sensor in close proximity of the detector/trigger target. Set air gap/clearance at .010"-.188". Tachometer works with 8-24 volts DC, proximity sensor works with 6-36 volts DC. Dimensions for mounting hole for tachometer: 3" wide x 1-17/32" wide. Tachometer measures 1" in depth. Dimensions of proximity sensor: 15/32" diameter x 1-3/8" thread length. Wiring Instructions: #1 wire on tachometer connects to brown wire on proximity sensor and ignition switch (12 volt power), #2 wire on tachometer connects to blue wire on proximity sensor and engine/chassis ground (battery negative (–) post), and #5 wire on tachometer connects to black wire on (either) proximity sensor. Wires #3 and #4 connects to nothing. Wiring is the same for the hall effect and inductive proximity sensors. Some proximity sensors have an LED (Light Emitting Diode) on the rear of unit. If the proximity sensor is wired incorrectly, the LED will illuminate within the target. Click or tap here for YouTube videos to see how well this tachometer works. Cannot be wired in conjunction with the Dynatek Dyna S or PerTronix Ignitor ignition modules. This tachometer must be wired separately or wiring can be integrated with my crank-trigger ignition system that use a proximity sensor.
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Internal Engine Rebuild Parts for Kohler K-Series and Magnum Engines - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Crankshaft Oil Seals. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Each included with complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below. IMPORTANT - Before installing any new oil seal, always apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal and on shaft to keep seal lubricated and cool until crankcase oil can reach it. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will get hot from friction and burn away, causing an oil leak.
Crankshaft Oil Seals. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 and M16. Each included with complete engine rebuild gasket set set listed below. Shown with protective lubricating grease applied to inside seal. IMPORTANT - Before installing any new oil seal, always apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal and on shaft to keep seal lubricated and cool until crankcase oil can reach it. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will get hot from friction and burn away, causing an oil leak.
Crankshaft Oil Seals. Fits Kohler KT-series and Magnum Opposed Twin Cylinder Engines. Each included with complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below. Shown with protective lubricating grease applied to inside seal. IMPORTANT - Before installing any new oil seal, always apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal and on shaft to keep seal lubricated and cool until crankcase oil can reach it. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will get hot from friction and burn away, causing an oil leak.
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Bearing Plate Shim Gaskets. Fits Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. Will also fit Kohler Magnum engine model M8 with silicone sealant applied to seal up end of cam pin hole on flywheel end to prevent oil leak. Use various thicknesses of these to set the crankshaft clearance end-play at .002" (for low RPM engines) to .023" (for high RPM engines). Several of each included with complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below.
Bearing Plate Shim Gaskets. Fits Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. Will also fit Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 with silicone sealant applied to seal up end of cam pin hole on flywheel end to prevent oil leak. Use various thicknesses of these to set the crankshaft clearance end-play between .003" (for low RPM engines) to .020" (for high RPM engines). Several of each included with complete engine rebuild gasket sets listed below.
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Oil Pan Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below.
Oil Pan Gaskets. .030" Thickness. Fits narrow base block Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow cast aluminum or cast iron oil pan, or if the block have been converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below. When ordering, please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.
Oil Pan Gasket. .060" Thickness. Fits narrow base block Kohler K-series engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. To be used with a pressed steel sheet metal oil pan. Special use part; not included in complete engine rebuild gasket set. When ordering, please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.
Oil Pan Gaskets. Fits wide base block Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a wide base block. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below. Please specify if you have a wide or narrow base block or oil pan. Click or tap here to determine if your engine is a wide or narrow base block.
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Cylinder head gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91. Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot. Cylinder head bolt torque values and sequences. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below Ê.
| Cylinder head gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot. Cylinder head bolt torque values and sequences. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below Ê.
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Cylinder head gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot. Cylinder head bolt torque values and sequences. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below Ê.
| Cylinder head gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K341/M16. Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot. Cylinder head bolt torque values and sequences. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below Ê.
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Cylinder head gasket. Fits Kohler engine model K361. Approximately .050" compressed thickness with steel fire ring. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot. Cylinder head bolt torque values and sequences. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below.
| Cylinder head gasket. Fits Kohler engine models MV16, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot. Cylinder head bolt torque values and sequences. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below.
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Cylinder head gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot. Cylinder head bolt torque values and sequences. Included in complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below.
| Cylinder Head Gasket. Fits Tecumseh engine models HH80, VH80, HH100 and VH100. Torque head bolts to 15-20 ft. lb. / 180-240 in. lb. Approximately .050" compressed thickness. Doesn't need to be retorqued again once hot.
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Complete Engine Rebuild Gasket Sets w/Oil Seals Listed Below [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]| [Top of Page] | |
Complete Engine Rebuild Gasket Sets w/oil seals. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181. NOTE: These gasket sets can also be used on the Kohler Magnum M8 engine by applying clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant where the flywheel end cam pin hole is to prevent an oil leak.
| Complete Engine Rebuild Gasket Sets w/oil seals. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301 and K321. NOTE: Being the gasket set for Kohler Magnum M10, M12 and M14 engines are no longer available, these gasket sets can also be used on the Magnum engines by applying clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant where the flywheel end cam pin hole is to prevent an oil leak.
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Complete Engine Rebuild Gasket Sets w/oil seals. Fits Kohler engine model K341. NOTE: Being the gasket set for Kohler Magnum M16 engine is no longer available, these gasket sets can also be used on the Magnum engines by applying clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant where the flywheel end cam pin hole is to prevent an oil leak.
| Complete Engine Rebuild Gasket Set w/oil seals. Fits Kohler model K361 cast iron block single cylinder OHV engine. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
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Complete Engine Rebuild Gasket Sets w/oil seals and valve stem seals. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
| Complete Engine Rebuild Gasket Set w/oil seals. Fits Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. NOTE: The gaskets and oil seals for the Kohler K482, K532 and K582 engines will not fit the K660/K662 engines.
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Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181 with 1-9/16" bolt hole spacing. OEM Kohler part # 231090-S. $3.75 each, plus shipping & handling. Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 with 1-11/16" bolt hole spacing. OEM Kohler part # 41 041 01-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling. Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. OEM Kohler part # 235122-S. $6.60 each, plus shipping & handling. Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine model K361. OEM Kohler part # 45 041 12-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Exhaust port gasket for K90/K91 (part # 220122-S) and K341 (part # 45 041 12-S) engines is discontinued from Kohler. | |
Exhaust Manifold-to-Cylinder Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. 1-3/4" offset bolt hole spacing.
| Exhaust Manifold to Block Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models K482, K532 and K582.
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[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] |
New Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Set - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
NOTE: I sell individual engine parts only. Because with "complete" engine rebuild kits that others offer, they always sell you extra parts your engine don't need, and/or leave out parts your engine do need. Completely disassemble your engine to determine which parts your engine needs and if the cylinder in your block and crank journal needs machine work performed, then email me a list of parts. Include the engine's model and specification numbers, too.
Kohler engine models K90/K91 Ring Sets, and Piston with Rings (includes wrist pin, retaining clips). Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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Kohler engine models K141, K160 and early K161 Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist pin and retaining clips). These are for the smaller 2-7/8" diameter cylinder bore. Cylinder can be bored to 2-15/16", and the bigger piston and rings listed below can be used. Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8 Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist pin and retaining clips). These are for the bigger 2-15/16" diameter cylinder bore. Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10 and K482 Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist pin and retaining clips). (The K241, M10 and K482 engines use the same piston and rings.) Priced per cylinder. Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability. Compression height is 1.63". Being the wrist pin is centered, these pistons can be installed in either direction. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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Kohler K-series and Magnum models K301, M12 and K532 Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist pin and retaining clips). (The K301, M12 and K532 engines use the same piston and rings.) Priced per cylinder. Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability. Compression height is 1.7". Being the wrist pin is centered, these pistons can be installed in either direction. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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Kohler K-series and Magnum models K321, M14 and K582 Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist pin and retaining clips). (The K321, M14 and K582 engines use the same piston and rings.) Priced per cylinder. Compression height is 1.7". Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability. And being the wrist pin is centered, these pistons can be installed in either direction. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K341, M16 and K361 Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Sets (includes wrist pin and retaining clips). (The K341, M16 and K361 engines use the same piston and rings.) Compression height is 1.7". Rings made of high grade cast iron for durability. Wrist pin is offset to reduce piston slap. Therefore, piston installs with notch facing flywheel. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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Piston Wrist Pin Retainers for 5/8" diameter wrist pins. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18. FYI - Snap rings are much easier to install (with snap ring pliers) and they last longer than the OEM Cir-Clips because there's more "wear area" around them due to the flat area.
Ring Sets Only and Cast Pistons with Rings. Fits Kohler flathead twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18. The KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18 pistons all have the same dimensions, same wrist pin hole size (.6247"-.6249") and same compression height (1.125"), and accept the same rings. The only difference is the KT17 and KT17 Series II pistons are cast aluminum, and the MV16, M18 and MV18 pistons are forged, and made by Mahle. The KT-series rings will also fit the Mahle pistons, the Mahle pistons are not available for these engines. Priced per cylinder. To maintain engine balance and reduce vibration, two sets of matching oversize piston and rings are required. IMPORTANT: Check ring end gaps for proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Mahle Piston, Pin, Clips with Rings for models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18. Wrist pin diameter: .6247"-.6249". Compression height: 1.125". Priced per cylinder. Rings not available separately. To maintain engine balance and reduce vibration, two sets of matching oversize piston and rings are required. IMPORTANT: Check ring gap end gaps and piston thrust face for proper clearance before installing to prevent rings from galling the cylinder wall when hot and piston from seizing in the cylinder when hot. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Piston Wrist Pin Retainers for 3/4" diameter wrist pins. Fits Kohler engine models KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20. FYI - Snap rings are much easier to install (with snap ring pliers) and they last longer than the OEM Cir-Clips because there's more "wear area" around them due to the flat area.
Cast Pistons, Pins, Clips with Rings. Fits Kohler engine models KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20. Wrist pin diameter: .7499"-.7501". Compression height: 1.1875". Priced per cylinder. To maintain engine balance and reduce vibration, two sets of matching oversize piston and rings are required. The KT-series cast piston thrust face to cylinder bore oil clearance is .007"-.010". Piston with the 5/8" wrist pin for KT19 (first design) no longer available.
Mahle Pistons, Pins, Clips with Rings for models KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M20, MV20. Wrist pin diameter: .7499"-.7501". Compression height: 1.1875". Priced per cylinder. Rings not available separately. To maintain engine balance and reduce vibration, two sets of matching oversize piston and rings are required. The Mahle forged piston thrust face to cylinder bore clearance is .0045"-.0062".
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NOTE: High-quality ring sets, pistons and piston/rings assemblies are also available for other makes and models of small gas engines. And the piston assemblies that's offered here will work with a stock connecting rod and crankshaft without the need for rebalancing. And always match a billet connecting rod of a certain length to an aftermarket piston (Arias, JE, etc.) that has the correct compression height. These two parts must be matched for the piston to come flush with the top of the engine block, or have a few thousands of an inch pop-out. If using a Kohler connecting rod, the compression height may not be correct with an aftermarket piston (Arias, JE, etc.) that has the wrong wrist pin offset. The same is true with a Kohler piston and a billet connecting rod of a the wrong length. You can find piston ring compressors on eBay. |
NOTE: Complete engine rebuild kits are available, but a kit will cost more than if the parts were purchased separately. So please contact A-1 Miller's with a list of parts you need, and I'll get back to you with a total amount including shipping & handling. And if you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website or for other make and model of engines. Please contact A-1 Miller's and I'll see if I can get it at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. |
New and Used OEM and Aftermarket Replacement Connecting Rods - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Upon installation of a connecting rod in a Kohler engine, the oil hole in the cap face toward the camshaft! There's "match marks" on both the rod and rod cap. They MUST be aligned or "matched up" so the big end of the rod forms a perfect circle around the crank journal when installed. Otherwise, if the cap is installed backwards, the "perfect circle" will be oblong or "egg-shaped," which will bind on the crank journal. And DO NOT over-tighten the rod bolts or nuts! If the threads strip out in a rod, then perhaps a longer grade 8 fine thread bolt can be installed in reverse to serve as a stud (the rod will need to be machined for head bolt clearance) and use a grade 8 nut. If this cannot be done, then the rod is scrap metal. |
Connecting rods. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91. NOTE: Crank journal must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition, if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to make less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rod when the engine is started for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease or on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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New Connecting Rods. Fits Kohler K-series models K141, K160/K161 cast iron block flathead engines. These are plain aluminum bearing surface rods. Replaceable bearing inserts are not available for these particular rods. 230519 embossed in beam section on OEM Kohler rods. The alternative to using an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition, if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be reground so it's perfectly round again and then if the original rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to make less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rod when the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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New Connecting Rods. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum models K181 and M8 cast iron block flathead engines. These are plain aluminum bearing surface rods. Replaceable bearing inserts are not available for these particular rods. NOTE - The alternative to using an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition, if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to make less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rod when the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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New Connecting Rods. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10. Strong rods. Comes with long dipper. 5.558" length. NOTE - These rods can be bored for installation of bearing inserts, and crank journal must be reground to match diameter of undersize bearing inserts. Crank journal must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition, if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. Bearing inserts cannot be used. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to make less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rod when the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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New Connecting Rods. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum models K301/M12 and K321/M14 cast iron block flathead engines. Comes with long dipper. 5.3" length. NOTE - These rods can be bored for installation of bearing inserts, and crank journal must be reground to match diameter of undersize bearing inserts. Crank journal must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition, if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. Bearing inserts cannot be used. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to make less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rod when the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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New Connecting Rods. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum K341/M16 cast iron block engines. These rods have a narrow wrist pin hole. Comes with long dipper. 5.3" length. NOTE - All 16hp rods, K-series or Magnum, have a narrow wrist pin hole. Also, these rods can be bored for installation of bearing inserts, and crank journal must be reground to match diameter of undersize bearing inserts. Crank journal must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition, if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. Bearing inserts cannot be used. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to make less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rod when the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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ALCOA Connecting Rods. Designed for Kohler engine model K361, but will fit Kohler engine models K301/M12, K321/M14 and K341/M16 flathead engines. Extremely strong rods. These rods have a narrow wrist pin hole for the (Magnum) Mahle, K341 and K361 pistons. Comes with long dipper. 5.3" length. NOTE: These rods can be bored for installation of STD size, .010", .020",or .030" undersize bearing inserts, and crank journal must be reground to match diameter of undersize bearing inserts. Crank journal must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using an undersize rod is if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition, if the matching-size crank journal isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be reground until it's perfectly round again and then if the original rod also isn't deeply scored and/or badly burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. Bearing inserts cannot be used. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to make less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rod when the engine is started for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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New Connecting Rods. Fits Kohler engine models MV16, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, M18, MV18. Wrist pin hole diameter is .625". Bearing inserts are not available for these rods. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
New Connecting Rods. Fits Kohler engine models KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20. Wrist pin hole diameter is .750". The rods listed below will not fit the KT19 (first design) engine, and the KT19 (first design) rods are no longer available from any source. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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Crankshaft Main Bearings (Flanged Sleeve Bushings). Fits Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models MV16, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M18 MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE: On these engines, if one main journal (mostly likely the PTO end) is worn beyond specs, it can be reground undersize, and if the other main journal (most likely the flywheel end) measures within specs, it can remain STD size.
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STD size, .010", .020" or .030" (hard to find now) undersize Replaceable Tri-Metal (Lead Alloy/Copper/Steel) Bearing Inserts in Connecting Rods for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 M20 and MV20. Rods for the before mentioned engines can be bored and notched to accept bearing inserts. Even severely burnt, scored, or rods with a mismatched cap can be bored for installation of bearing inserts. Only USA-made Clevite 77, Federal Mogul or Sealed Power bearing inserts will be installed. No low quality Chinese-made bearing inserts ever installed. All A-1 Miller's Professional Machined connecting rods include ground-out notches to prevent bearing rotation in rod and drilled oil hole for proper lubrication. Please indicate diameter of crank journal for size of bearing inserts. (STD size, .010", .020", .030" or resizable .060" undersizes.) Also, rods can be center-bored for top of piston to come flush with deck, or bored .020"± offset for a .020"± piston pop-out at no extra charge.
NOTE: If a crank journal is worn beyond specs or badly scored/burnt,it will need to be reground to the next undersize to match the appropriate size bearing inserts. And if you wish to have A-1 Miller's to bore a rod for you, please let me know if you want the bearing insert centered in the bore of the rod (5.300" rod length; piston flush with top of block), offset .020" (5.320" rod length; safe to use with a milled OEM Kohler stock head and stock head gasket) or offset .060" (5.360" rod length; use with a non-milled OEM Kohler head and stock head gasket) to pop the piston out of the cylinder (see below Ê) to raise the compression and help improve airflow within the combustion chamber for more power and torque. The bearing inserts I install in Kohler 10-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV K361 connecting rods can be used for general lawn and garden use, stock or high RPM competition pulling engines. The rod will need to be bored exactly 1.625" for correct bearing to journal oil clearance. NOTE: Being virtually all Kohler K241/M10 pistons come within .020"± from the top of the block, which lowers the compression ratio. (The factory made them this way for reasons unknown.) I prefer to bore the K241 10hp rods .020" offset so the piston will come flush with the top of the block. This will allow the engine to produce a little more power. It won't effect the longevity of the engine or cause any problems whatsoever. But sometimes with the .020" offset, the piston will pop out of the cylinder a few thousandths of an inch, which will still hurt nothing. And the bore can be offset .040" for a .020"± piston pop-out. FYI - Before I machine a rod for installation of bearing inserts, I use a metal "plug" alignment tool that I fabricated to precisely align the big hole of the connecting rod with the centerline of the spindle in my milling machine. Then while the plug is in the rod, I firmly clamp the rod to the milling machine table and after leaving the big hole centered or moving the table so many thousandths of an inch offset for piston pop-out, I lock the table so it won't move in any direction while boring the rod. But for reasons unknown, sometimes the cutting tool will bore the hole in the rod slightly off-center toward one of the bolts or studs. When this happens, I simply grind a small notch on the outside of each bearing shell so they'll clear the rod bolt. I've talked to other machinists who bore Kohler rods also about this and they tell A-1 Miller's sometimes the same thing happens to their rods. But as long as the outside of the bearing shells are notched for clearance of the bolt or stud, the off-center of the bearing inserts poses no problems whatsoever. And bearing inserts for the 10-16hp Kohler engines can be installed in Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 STD size connecting rods, but the crank journals would need to be reground exactly to 1.500" to match the inside diameter of the bearing inserts when installed in the rods. And for your information, STD size crank journals for the K482, K532 and K582 engines measures 1.6245". |
High Quality 8 Ball Main Crankshaft Radial Bearings. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum cast iron block engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Heat treated chrome steel (AISI 52100) for higher resistance and durability. Supports up to 17,000 RPM. Bigger balls rotate freer and run cooler, which create less rolling resistance and friction than 12 ball bearings with smaller balls. (It's just like small tires on a 4x4 or 4WD truck/vehicle versus big tires - the bigger tires will roll with less resistance, especially over rough terrain.) Works excellent for general lawn and garden engines or for high performance competition pulling engines that run at high RPM or at wide open throttle. Dimensions: 1.57" (40mm) I.D. x 3.54" O.D. (90mm) x .90" (23mm) width. See note below Ê . NOTE: If your bearing(s) have more than .005" of play due to wear, or it feels rough or "rubbles" when rotated by hand with motor oil applied, then it should be replaced. FYI - All US and import manufacturers of ball bearings have always been made them to the metric dimensions. Where applicable, the manufacturers try to make them close as possible to the inch dimensions.
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More parts to be added later. |
Valve Seat Cutter Kits, OEM Size and Oversize Valves - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Basic Small Engine Valve Seat Cutter Kit. This basic small engine valve seat cutting kit by Neway Manufacturing will make it so you can perform professional valve jobs. Easy to use with accurate results. This kit contains everything to recondition vintage small engine's 31º and 46º angle valve seats. The cutter angles are 31º and 46º, which allows an interference angle that provides a better seal for 30º and 45º angle valve faces. Adjustable carbide steel cutters for small and large diameter valve seats. Contact A-1 Miller's if you have any questions about using this tool. Part # LG 1000. $250.00 each, plus shipping & handling. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website] This Kit Includes:
| Deluxe Small Engine Valve Seat Cutter Kit. This deluxe small engine valve seat cutting kit by Neway Manufacturing will make it so you can perform professional valve jobs. Easy to use with accurate results. This kit contains everything to recondition vintage small engine's 31º and 46º angle valve seats. The additional angle cutters will help restore very worn valve seats to proper condition. The cutter angles are 31º and 46º, which allows an interference angle that provides a better seal for 30º and 45º angle valve faces. The additional 15º and 60º cutters will allow to adjust the contact area between a worn valve seat with the valve face. Adjustable carbide steel cutters for small and large diameter valve seats. Contact A-1 Miller's if you have any questions about using this tool. Part # LG 2010. $350.00 each, plus shipping & handling. This Kit Contains:
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Intake Valve. Fits Kohler engine models KT90/KT91. Head diameter: 15/16".. New Old Stock. Discontinued Kohler part # 220008-S. $32.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.) Exhaust Valve. Fits Kohler engine models KT90/KT91. OEM Kohler part # 220009-S. $45.05 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, resulting in leakage and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust at idle speed. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance. Exhaust Valves. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. Dimensions: head diameter: 1-1/8"; overall length: 4.056"; stem diameter: .309"; 45º face angle.
Intake Valves. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. Dimensions: head diameter: 1-3/8"; overall length: 4.065"; stem diameter: .309"; 45º face angle.
5/16" (.3125") Chucking Reamer. Use to clean carbon deposits from used valve guides or enlarge new guides for a 5/16" valve stem in flathead 7hp+ B&S, Kohler, 8hp+ Tecumseh, etc. engines. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, resulting in leakage and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust at idle speed. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance. 1-1/8" Diameter Exhaust Valves. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, early K321's, K482, K532 and K582. Dimensions - Head diameter: 1-1/8"; Length: 4.656"; Stem diameter: .309"; Face angle: 45º.
1-3/8" Diameter Intake Valves. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K482, K532 and K582. Dimensions - Head diameter: 1-3/8"; Length: 4.640"; Stem diameter: .3095"; Face angle: 45º.
1-3/8" Diameter Exhaust Valves for later model K321's/M14 (suffix "D" and later), K341/M16, K532 and K582 (for K582 after serial # 9165450). Dimensions - Head diameter: 1.373; Length: 4.639; Stem diameter: .3075; Face Angle: 45º.
NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, resulting in leakage and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust at idle speed. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance. 5/16" (.3125") Chucking Reamer. Use to clean carbon deposits from used valve guides or enlarge new guides for a 5/16" valve stem in flathead 7hp+ B&S, Kohler, 8hp+ Tecumseh, etc. engines. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 8mm (.315") Chucking Reamer. Use to enlarge valve guides for installation of oversize or aftermarket valves with an 8mm valve stem in Kohler engine models K361, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20, or 1.720" oversize valve in 10-16hp Kohler engines. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. High Quality Aftermarket K361 Valve. Can be used as intake or exhaust valve. Heat-treated, hardened steel. Dimensions: head diameter: 1.437"; overall length: 4.165"±; face angle: 45º. Has 8mm chrome-plated stem. Requires 8mm reamer to enlarge guide. OEM Kohler valve keepers/locks/collets and retainer or rotator can be used with this valve. OEM valve Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 45 016 02-S (intake) and 45 017 01-S (exhaust).
8mm Chucking Reamer. Use to enlarge valve guides for installation of aftermarket valves with an 8mm valve stem in Kohler engine models K361, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20, or 1.720" oversize valve in 10-16hp Kohler engines. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, resulting in leakage and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust at idle speed. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance. Intake Valves. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 52 016 05-S (listed for M18, MV18), 52 017 01-S (listed for KT17), 52 017 02-S (listed for KT17), 52 017 03-S (listed for KT17), 52 017 05-S (listed for KT17), 52 017 07-S (listed for MV16, M18) and 52 017-08-S (listed for MV16, M18). Overall length: 3.641".
Exhaust Valves. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18. Dimensions: head diameter: 1.373"; overall length: 3.641"; stem diameter: .3075".
Intake Valves. Fits Kohler engine models KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 52 016 02-S, 52 017 03 (listed for KT19), 52 017 07-S, 52 017 08-S. Overall length: 3.926".
Exhaust Valves. Fits Kohler engine models KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 52 016 02-S, 52 017 03, 52 017 07-S, 52 017 08-S. Overall length: 3.926".
8mm Chucking Reamer. Use to enlarge valve guides for installation of aftermarket valves with an 8mm valve stem in Kohler engine models K361, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20, or 1.720" oversize valve in 10-16hp Kohler engines. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, resulting in leakage and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust at idle speed. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance.
Oversize Valves for High RPM Kohler Pulling Engines. Each can be used as intake valve for Kohler 10-16hp competition pulling engines, or as exhaust valve (with a 20%± bigger intake valve). Each have a 45º face angle for a 46º seat, but can be reground to 30º to match a 31º seat. OEM Kohler valve keepers/locks/collets and retainers can be used with these valves.
High Quality Valve Lapping Tools with Wooden Contoured Grip. After the valve faces and seats have been professionally recut or reground in a valve refacer machine and valve seats recut or reground with a valve seat grinder/grinding stone, and valve clearances have been set to specifications, apply valve grinding/lapping compound (which can be purchased online and at virtually any auto parts store) on the valve faces and according to valve size, use these tools to rotate the valve in its seat back and forth by hand (lap-in the valves) to create a rough surface on the valve face and seat so the valves will eventually wear into seats, forming a perfect seal allowing the valves to last longer and so the engine will have more compression to produce more power. IMPORTANT - Always thoroughly clean the valve grinding/lapping compound from the valves and seats, and inspect the valve face and seat for 360º contact before installation of the valves!
è New valves for other makes and models of small engines are also available. | |
Valve Guides - FYI - Valve guides are made of either cast iron or bronze, and not steel. Cast iron and bronze are very hard and porous metals. They absorb oil and lubricate the valve stems for longer wear. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website] Stock (centered) Cast Iron Valve Guides. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. Dimensions: .310" I.D. x .5645" O.D. x 1.686" overall length. NOTE: Use my valve guide removal and installation tool to remove and install valve guides. After installation and for correct valve stem clearance, guide may need to be enlarged with a 5/16" reamer Ê . And before installing valve, apply clean motor oil on valve stem to provide lubrication of the guide and stem.
Stock (centered) Cast Iron Valve Guides. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K482, K532 and K582. Dimensions: .310" I.D. x .629" O.D. x 2.135" overall length. NOTE: Use my valve guide removal and installation tool to remove and install valve guides. After installation and for correct valve stem clearance, guide may need to be enlarged with a 5/16" reamer Ê . And before installing valve, apply clean motor oil on valve stem to provide lubrication of the guide and stem.
Cast Iron Valve Guides. Fits Kohler engine model K361 cylinder head.
Stock (centered) Cast Iron Valve Guides. Fits Kohler engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. NOTE: Use my valve guide removal and installation tool to remove and install valve guides. After installation and for correct valve stem clearance, guide may need to be enlarged with a 5/16" reamer Ê . And before installing valve(s), apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on valve stem to provide lubrication of the guide and stem. To replace the valve guides in Kohler engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 or MV20 with the engine fully assembled and cylinders fastened to the crankcase, first remove the springs, retainers and valves, and break off the protruding end of the guide in the valve spring compartment with a cold chisel and hammer, then drive out the remaining portion of the guide into the spring compartment. But with the cylinders off the crankcase, just drive the guides out without breaking them off first. Install new guides by driving them in until flush with the surface of the port. Then ream the guides so the valve stems will have proper clearance.
NOTE: The alternative to installing new replacement OEM-type valve guides is to have the old [worn] guides reamed for installation of thin-wall bronze sleeves/liners (bushings), which can be installed by a reputable automotive machine shop. Bronze valve guide sleeves/liners are a low-cost alternative to replacing the entire guide in most engines. Bronze also last longer than cast iron guides because bronze is harder material and it retains more oil for better lubrication of the valve stem. High Quality, High Speed Steel 5/16" (.3125") Chucking Reamer. Use to clean carbon deposits from used valve guides or enlarge new guides for a 5/16" valve stem in flathead 7hp+ B&S, Kohler, 8hp+ Tecumseh, etc. engines. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. | |
A-1 Miller's Valve Guide Removal and Installation Tool for use with all Kohler K-series and Magnum engines. IMPORTANT: The engine block could crack if guides are removed or installed with a hydraulic press! Therefore, it's best to use a big, heavy hammer to drive out the old guide into the valve spring compartment and use the same hammer to install the new guide from inside the valve pocket. When installing the new guide, be sure to hammer straight down in alignment with the guide and not at an angle. Hitting the guide at an angle could cause it to break. Install new guides until flush with the valve pocket. This tool can be used with either OEM Kohler and aftermarket offset valve guides. Machined at a 90º angle where the pilot meets the shank. Dimensions: .300" pilot x 1/2" diameter shank x 5" overall length. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
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High Quality, High Speed Steel Chucking Reamers. Precision ground to provide correct stem to guide clearance. Will not allow valve stem to be too loose or too tight in guide. When reaming guide, use an electric hand drill with plenty of oil in guide. Before installing valve, apply motor oil on stem for lubrication to reduce wear to guide and prevent valve from sticking. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
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Valve Stem Seals. Required to prevent crankcase oil from draining down into (OHV) or being suctioned into (flatheads) the combustion chamber through the guide. Silicone rubber w/metal clamp. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on valve stem before inserting valve through seal to provide lubrication of the stem, guide and seal. Dimensions: 5/16" I.D. (stem) x .500" I.D. (guide) x .600" O.D. NOTE: Some early production KT17 models do not use valve stem seals.
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OEM, Performance, High-Performance Camshafts, Valve Springs, Retainers, Rotators and Keepers
New-Style, One-Piece, Plain, Ordinary OEM Camshafts with Automatic Compression Release (ACR). Fits Kohler K-series or Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 or K341/M16. IMPORTANT: To prevent seizing of camshaft on pin when engine is ran for the first time, apply plenty of motor oil on cam pin and inside cam before installing cam in engine. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. When reusing lifters, roughen lifter faces with 600 grit sandpaper to produce a new wear pattern and so the lifters will rotate slightly with every lift to prevent wear to the cam lobes. And the lobes on the used cams have not been reground for performance.
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Professionally Reground 4,000± RPM Performance Torque Cam for Kohler EnginesFYI - In order to gain the full benefit of a performance camshaft, just installing this type of cam will not greatly increase the power output of a Kohler engine. Along with the performance cam, the carburetor will need to be bored-out and reworked, the cylinder head will need to be milled .050" to raise the compression ratio, the valves/seats will need to be reworked, and installing an open/unrestricted exhaust header pipe will help, too. All of these things must work together so more air will enter the combustion chamber (and exit the chamber), which will build up more compression to allow the engine to produce more horsepower and torque. For Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Suitable for a stock competition pulling tractor or for heavy lawn and garden work. This particular cam profile design provides more torque (lugging power) and improved engine performance from 3,800 to 4,200 RPM. The lobes on this cam are not welded up. They are professionally and precision reground on a cam grinding machine to have the factory stock lift (.324"), but with slightly increased duration, which makes it perform best around 4,000 RPM. This cam will pass tech for a stock cam. It will add about 3 more horsepower and 2 ft. lbs. of torque to an average stock engine with more lugging power than the OEM Kohler K361 cam. This cast cam performs best with our performance BLUE valve springs (listed below Ê; to prevent fuel spray out the carburetor and lifter chatter), race-quality retainers (or the OEM Kohler stamped steel retainers), reworked and undercut stock size valves for more airflow, ports made larger, and a reworked carburetor with a bored-out venturi for maximum performance for competition pulling. If there's any restriction of airflow in and out of the combustion chamber, the cam will not perform at 100% efficiency. This cam builds up the compression about 6% more than the K361 cam, and approximately 11% more than the flathead engine cams at around 4,000 RPM. This cam sounds just like an OEM Kohler stock cam. You can't hear the difference out the exhaust. The duration and centerline of the lobes on this cam helps the engine produce the most power and torque between 3,600-4,500 RPM. At higher RPM, due to the limited duration, no substantial gain in power or torque will result. If the engine is built to the max, tractor is geared correctly and traction is adequate, engine shouldn't bog down much with this cam. It'll keep pumping out the ponies right out the gate! Use with the OEM Kohler 1" base lifters. When reusing lifters, roughen lifter faces with 600 grit sandpaper in an erratic pattern to produce a new wear pattern and so the lifters will rotate slightly with every lift to prevent wear to the cam lobes. Use the recommended break-in oil, too. This cam installs just like the OEM Kohler cam. Just thoroughly lubricate the inside with motor oil, align the timing marks on the gear teeth, set the end-play and valve clearances at .010" for the intake and .014" for the exhaust, and it should be good to go! IMPORTANT: NEVER INSTALL THE CAMSHAFT DRY! To prevent seizing of the cam on the pin when the engine is ran for the first time, apply plenty of clean motor oil inside the cam before installing it in the engine. This will provide vital lubrication of the cam until crankcase oil reaches it.
FYI: When the cam lobes are reground, metal is removed from the base circle which reduce the diameter of the base circle in order retain maximum lift at the point on the lobe. The ramps on the lobes are also "rounded" to give the cam more duration. The cam grinding machine's grinding stones are about 1" wide, and after the cam grinding process, I have to manually grind metal away from the sides of the base circles so the edge of the lifters won't "ride up" on the ungrounded areas and hold the valves slightly open when they're supposed to be fully closed. I have to do this to every reground cam I have in stock. Some cam grinders apply a phosphate conversion coating (which resembles flat or matte black paint) to the entire camshaft, especially the lobes. This coating is to prevent galling (wear) during the break-in period and it also covers the secondary grinding areas on each side of the base circles of the lobes so they can't be readily easily seen or noticed. Motor oil with high zinc phosphate content will also protect the cam lobes and other internal moving engine parts from wear during break-in. Otherwise, if everything else is set up correctly with your engine, this cam should work fine. There's no need to be concerned when you receive the cam and see the metal ground away. Also, some of the cams I have, the points lobe is slightly worn. (It's hard to find a good used, 100% unworn cam nowadays.) I include a stainless steel points pushrod with a flared-end to make contact with the unworn areas of the lobe. The pushrod will need to be installed from inside the block before the cam is installed. IMPORTANT: To prevent seizing of camshaft on pin when engine is ran for the first time, apply plenty of motor oil on cam pin and inside cam before installing cam in engine. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. Medium Performance (Blue) Single Valve Spring Set for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Can also be used in Kohler opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II, KT21, M18, M20, K482, K532 and K582 for increased performance or competition pulling and with the OEM Kohler stamped steel valve retainers listed below. These springs are more aggressive than OEM Kohler valve springs, but less aggressive than the red valve springs listed below. Suitable for competition pulling engines only; not recommended for general yard or garden use. Can be easily compressed with a small engine valve spring compressor tool. Designed for the OEM Kohler stock cam or our reground 4,000± RPM torque cam with stock lift in pulling engines running up to 5,000 RPM for quicker valve closing to prevent valve float. (Newton's third law of motion.) Valve float allows the engine to momentarily lose compression, cause fuel to spray out the carburetor and the engine will make a "hunt, hunt" sound at high RPM. As a result, the engine will lose power, and as the weight box on the sled moves forward upon on the tractor, the engine may not be able to recover. These springs can be used with stock size valves, OEM Kohler stamped steel/non-rotator retainers and keepers/locks/collets. Do not use with OEM Kohler valve rotators with these springs! Rotators are thicker, and being these performance springs are much longer (and slightly stiffer) than stock springs (that require rotators), coil bind may result at full valve lift, which could break the cam. Sold as a matched set. One spring is no stiffer than the other. Can be easily compressed with a standard small engine valve spring compressor. Same diameter as OEM Kohler springs. Dimensions: .697" I.D.; .953" O.D.; 2" uncompressed height. specifications: Seat load: 27 lbs. @ 1.650"; Open load: 70 lbs. @ 1.200"; Coil bind: .920"; Spring rate (lbs/inch): 96. Made by Comp Cams. New. $10.00 per set of two, plus shipping & handling. Differences in Camshafts for Kohler Pulling Engines -
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High Performance Camshaft for Hot-Stock and Stock-Altered Kohler Competition Pulling EnginesDesigned specifically for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 Competition Pulling Engines. This is a much more aggressive camshaft than listed above È. Lobes are hard-surface welded on an OEM Kohler cast cam, then professionally and precision ground on a cam grinding machine to give it a stock lift (.324"-.330"), but much more duration (290º). This cast cam performs best at wide open throttle with our high performance RED valve springs (listed below Ê; to prevent fuel spray out the carburetor and lifter chatter), race-quality retainers (or the OEM Kohler stamped steel retainers), reworked and undercut stock size or oversize valves for more airflow, ports made larger, and a reworked carburetor with a bored-out venturi for maximum performance for competition pulling. If there's any restriction of airflow in and out of the combustion chamber, the cam will not perform at 100% efficiency. Due to the increased duration, with an open header pipe, this cam produces a loud and attention-getting BOOM, BOOM sound at idle, and the sound "smoothes out" at higher and steady RPM, and then produces a bellowing, rumbling, crackling sound and backfire upon sudden deceleration, which is normal. Due to the long duration, this cam might cause slight carburetor flooding or "loading up on fuel" in the carburetor at slow idle, which is normal; click here to learn about this. This cam profile helps the engine produce the most power and torque at wide open throttle operation. If used in a 4,000± RPM engine, no substantial increase in power will result. To be used with wide base lifters. When reusing lifters, roughen lifter faces with 600 grit sandpaper in an erratic pattern to produce a new wear pattern and so the lifters will rotate slightly with every lift to prevent wear to the cam lobes. Use the recommended break-in oil, too. This cam installs just like the OEM Kohler cam. Just thoroughly lubricate the inside with motor oil, align the timing marks on the gear teeth, set the end-play and valve clearances at .010" for the intake and .014" for the exhaust, and it should be good to go! NOTE: If methanol fuel is going to be burned in the engine and the ignition timing advanced more than 25º BTDC, the automatic compression release mechanism on this cam will need to be removed and a high torque starter motor will also need to be used. Otherwise, the timing would be so far advanced, the spark will occur when the compression release opens the exhaust valve. This will cause the engine to be hard to start, if it would start at all. IMPORTANT: NEVER INSTALL THE CAMSHAFT DRY! To prevent seizing of the cam on the pin when the engine is ran for the first time, apply plenty of clean motor oil inside the cam before installing it in the engine. This will provide vital lubrication of the cam until crankcase oil reaches it.
High Performance (Red) Single Valve Spring Set for Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. These are more aggressive than the blue valve springs listed above È. Suitable for competition pulling engines that run at very high RPM or wide open throttle. Can be easily compressed with a small engine valve spring compressor tool. Designed for cast or steel cams with up to .400" lift in Hot-Stock or Stock-Altered competition pulling engines that run at wide open throttle for quicker valve closing to prevent valve float. (Newton's third law of motion.) Valve float allows the engine to momentarily lose compression, cause fuel to spray out the carburetor and the engine will make a "hunt, hunt" sound at high RPM. As a result, the engine will lose power, and as the weight box on the sled moves forward upon on the tractor, the engine may not be able to recover. These springs can be used with stock size or oversize valves, OEM Kohler stamped steel/non-rotator retainers and keepers/locks/collets. Do not use with OEM Kohler valve rotators with these springs! Rotators are thicker, and being these performance springs are much longer (and much stiffer) than stock springs that require rotators, coil bind may result at full valve lift, which could break the cam. Sold as a matched set. One spring is no stiffer than the other. Can be easily compressed with a standard small engine valve spring compressor tool. Same diameter as OEM Kohler springs. Dimensions: .697" I.D.; .953" O.D.; 2" uncompressed height. specifications: Seat load: 55 @ 1.500"; Open load: 127 @ 1.000"; Coil bind: .950"; Spring rate (lbs/inch): 144. Made by Comp Cams. New. $12.00 per set of two, plus shipping & handling. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
OEM Kohler Stamped Steel Valve Spring Isolator. Prevents engine operating heat from collapsing or weakening valve springs. For general yard and garden engines. Not required for competition pulling engines. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582. For 5/8" O.D. valve guides. OEM Kohler part # 235011-S.
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FYI: The OEM valve springs in various models of Kohler cast iron block engines are not the same. They are not like the OEM springs that's used in a stock small block Chevy V8's, which are the same. For some reason, Kohler installed a specific valve spring in a certain model engine to match the cam profile (lobe lift and duration) so the engine will perform best. And used valve springs rarely lose adequate pressure. They can be reused as long as they're not rusted or have been overheated. The rust-pitted areas is a weak spot and when in operation and under pressure, the spring could break. OEM Kohler Valve Springs designed specially for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8. Each have no dampening end. Recommended for general lawn and garden use. Suitable for up to 3,600± RPM with cam having stock lift.
OEM Kohler Valve Springs designed specially for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, K482, K532 and K582. Each have dampening end to lessen harmonic vibrations at higher RPMs. Recommended for general lawn and garden use. Suitable for up to 3,600± RPM with cam having stock lift.
OEM Kohler Valve Springs designed specially for Kohler KT-series and Magnum engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Has no dampening end. Recommended for general lawn and garden use. Suitable for up to 3,600± RPM with cam having stock lift. 1-9/16" uncompressed height; use only with valve rotator. Rotator recommended for exhaust valve to scrape away any carbon deposits lodged between valve face and seat to prevent burning of valve.
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OEM Kohler Stamped Steel Valve Retainers. Used mainly for intake valve. Not recommended for exhaust valve in general yard and garden equipment engines due to its inability to rotate valve, which would allow carbon deposits to become lodged between face and seat, causing a warped or burnt valve, resulting in loss of compression. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582. Use only with longer (1-3/4" uncompressed length) OEM Kohler or high-performance valve springs listed above È. If used with the shorter (1-9/16" uncompressed length) OEM Kohler valve spring, may cause lifter chatter at higher RPM, valve float and/or engine misfire, and could possibly wear the locking tang inside the keepers. For 5/16" diameter valve stems. Accepts 7º keepers/locks/collets listed below Ê. .998" outside diameter. Made of lightweight, heat-treated, hardened stamped steel. OEM Kohler part # 230011-S.
OEM Kohler Valve Rotators. Used mainly for exhaust valve in general yard and garden equipment engines. Rotates valve slightly as it opens to scrape away any carbon deposits from the face and seat to prevent a warped or burnt valve, which would result in loss of compression. Not needed for intake valve. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582. Also fits 6hp-18hp single and opposed twin cylinder Briggs & Stratton engines. Use only with shorter (1-9/16" uncompressed length) valve spring listed above È. If used with longer 1-3/4" OEM Kohler or high performance valve spring, coil bind may occur, resulting in possible cam breakage. For 5/16" diameter valve stems. Accepts 7º keepers/locks/collets listed below Ê. OEM Kohler part # 52 413 01-S. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 691939.
High Performance Valve Spring Retainers. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582. To be used with our BLUE medium performance valve springs or our RED high performance valve springs, or when used with OEM Kohler valve springs, the [longer] 1-11/16" or 1-3/4" uncompressed height spring must be used. NOTE: The OEM Kohler stamped steel retainers will work just as well with the blue or red springs. Made of lightweight, hardened 4140 chrome-moly thick steel. Not made of stamped steel. Accepts 7º keepers/locks/collets listed below Ê. Replaces OEM Kohler part # 230011-S.
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5/16" Valve Keepers/Locks/Collets for all Kohler K-series and Magnum K141-K361 cast iron engines, and KT series and Magnum twin cylinder flathead engines, including K482, K532 and K582. Also fits 6hp-18hp single- and twin-cylinder Briggs & Stratton exhaust valves. Can be used with 8mm valve stems and high performance valve springs listed above È. NOTE: Valve keepers usually don't wear or get damaged because they don't rotate on the valve stem. To check yours, with a valve out of the engine, install a valve retainer or rotator on the valve, then the keepers, and then pull back hard on the retainer or rotator. If the retainer or rotator holds or squeezes the keepers tight in the groove, then they can be reused. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 494553.
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High Quality, Heavy Duty Scissors-Type Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor Tool. Designed to compress OEM Kohler stock, our medium- and high-performance valve springs, but not the double or extremely heavy single springs. Can be used on flathead engines (valves in block) or Kohler K361 OHV cylinder head. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 19063.
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High Quality, Heavy Duty C-Shaped Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor Tool. Designed to compress OEM Kohler stock, our medium- and high-performance valve springs, but not the double or extremely heavy single springs. Can be used on flathead engines (valves in block) or Kohler K361 OHV cylinder head. Replaces Lisle part # 23300.
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High Quality, Extreme Duty Clamp-Type Valve Spring Compressor Tool. Designed to compress OEM Kohler stock, our medium- and high-performance valve springs, and the extremely heavy single or double springs. Can be used on flathead engines (valves in block) or Kohler K361 OHV cylinder head.
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Valve Lifter/Tappet. Fits older Kohler engine models K141 and K160/K161. For use with exhaust valve only and two-piece camshaft with automatic timing advance in K141 engines prior to specification suffix "C" and in K161 engines prior to specification suffix "J". Replace worn lifter to prevent erratic valve action and/or premature cam lobe wear. Non-adjustable. Grind end of valve stem with piston positioned at TDC on compression stroke to set valve clearances. Dimensions: 1.964" overall length x 1.115" base diameter x .308" stem diameter. Discontinued Kohler part # 230013-S.
Valve Lifter/Tappet. Fits later Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. For use with intake or exhaust valve and one-piece camshaft with automatic compression release (ACR). Replace worn lifter to prevent erratic valve action and/or premature cam lobe wear. Non-adjustable. Grind end of valve stems with piston positioned at TDC on compression stroke to set valve clearances. Dimensions: 2.020" overall length x 1.115" base diameter x .308" stem diameter. Discontinued Kohler part # 232777-S.
Valve Lifters/Tappets. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 and K341/M16. Dimensions: .6225" stem diameter x 1.060" base diameter x 2.750"-3.000" overall length: (adjustable). Use for OEM Kohler stock or performance cams with up to .340" lift. Set valve clearances with piston positioned at TDC on compression stroke. OEM Kohler part # D-235327-S.
1.280" Wide Base Adjustable Valve Lifters (Tappets). Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K231/M14 and K341/M16. For competition pulling engines only using high-performance cams with .400"-.575" lift. Set valve clearances with piston positioned at TDC on compression stroke. May need to reuse 7/16" adjusters from OEM Kohler lifters with these wide base lifters. (These are NOT Jeep lifters! Jeep lifters will not fit Kohler engines.)
Valve Lifter/Tappet. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV18 (w/specification #'s 58560, 58561) and MV20 (w/specification #'s 57527, 57528). Used with serial number 1917809285 and before. 2.895" overall length. No longer available from Kohler. OEM Kohler part #'s 52 019 01-S, 52 019 02 -S. (The OEM manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.)
Valve Lifter/Tappet. Fits Kohler engine models MV16, M18, MV18 (except w/spec #'s 58560, 58561), M20 and MV20 (except w/specification #'s 57527, 57528). Used with serial number 1917809286 and after. 2.885" overall length. OEM Kohler part # 52 019 03-S.
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Camshaft Pin. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. 1144 Stress Proof Steel Pin. 1/2" diameter x 7" length. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 235053-S (K-series; 7" length) and 47 380 09-S (Magnum; 6-3/4" length). $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling. New 1/2" Diameter Expansion Cup Plugs for Cam Pin Hole on Flywheel End of Engine. Each fits Kohler Magnum engine models M10-M16.
Camshaft End Plugs and Rubber O-Ring. Each fits Opposed Twin Cylinder Kohler KT-series and Magnum engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
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Camshaft Shims/Spacers/Thrust Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, and Engine Control on Kohler Command Single Cylinder CV11-16, CV460-465, CV490-495. NOTE: Being the OEM camshaft shims/thrust washers for these model engines are discontinued from Kohler, the aftermarket shims listed below are the only ones I can find that closely match the dimensions of the OEM shims. And being the .010" thickness shim (part # 230294-S) is also discontinued from Kohler, if desired, order two each of the OEM .005" shims listed below to make one .010" shim.
Camshaft Shims/Spacers/Thrust Washers. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, and inside crankcase for Kohler Command V-Twin models CH18, CH20, CH22, CH23, CH25, CH620, CH621, CH640, CH641, CH670, CH680, CH730, CH740, CH750 and certain TH18. Aftermarket shims can also be used as an indexing washer for flat seat spark plugs.
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Crankcase Breather Assembly/Cover Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91.
Crankcase Breather Assembly/Cover Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8.
Crankcase Breather Reed Plate Inner Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361.
Crankcase Breather Cover Outer Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361.
Crankcase Breather Assembly/Cover Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models MV16, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.
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Crankcase Breather and Air Cleaner Neoprene Rubber Seal. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, K582, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, CH640, CH730, CH740, CV670, CV680, CV730 and CV740. Dimensions: 1/4" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. x 9/16" length. FYI - A reinforced rubber fuel hose of the same size can be substituted for this part. OEM Kohler part #'s 220369-S, 231032-S. $5.65 each, plus shipping & handling. Crankcase Breather and Air Cleaner Neoprene Rubber Seal. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, MV18 MV20, CH18, CH20, CH22, CH25, CH730 and CV15. Dimensions: 1/4" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. x 7/8" length. FYI - A reinforced rubber fuel hose of the same size can be substituted for this part. OEM Kohler part #'s 230046-S. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Small Size Crankcase Breather Filter (Oil Trap). Fits Kohler engine models K91, K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, and opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M18 and M20. Replace deteriorated and crumbly filter to prevent loss of oil. NOTE: This "filter" is actually an oil trap. It traps and suspends oil droplets and prevents oil vapors from exiting the crankcase at higher RPM, then allows the oil to drain back down into the crankcase when the engine is at idle or turned off. (It's too coarse to be a filter of any kind.) Not included in aftermarket engine gasket set. Dimensions: Approximately (±) 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" square.
Medium Size Crankcase Breather Filter (Oil Trap). Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341 and various Kohler Magnum models M12, M14 and M16. Replace deteriorated and crumbly filter to prevent loss of oil. NOTE: This "filter" is actually an oil trap. It traps and suspends oil droplets and prevents oil vapors from exiting the crankcase at higher RPM, then allows the oil to drain back down into the crankcase when the engine is at idle or turned off. (It's too coarse to be a filter of any kind.) Not included in aftermarket engine gasket set. Fills about 1/3 center area of breather plate. To be used with crankcase breather cover with open atmospheric vent and external oil control baffle shield part # 235117-S (listed below Ê). Dimensions: Approximately (±) 1-1/2" width x 2" tall.
Large Size Crankcase Breather Filter (Oil Trap). Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 and various Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. Replace deteriorated and crumbly filter to prevent loss of oil. NOTE: This "filter" is actually an oil trap. It traps and suspends oil droplets and prevents oil vapors from exiting the crankcase at higher RPM, then allows the oil to drain back down into the crankcase when the engine is at idle or turned off. (It's too coarse to be a filter of any kind.) Not included in aftermarket engine gasket set. Fills entire area of breather plate. To be used with crankcase breather cover with PCV breather vent hose/tube and external oil control baffle shield and reed stop part # 270146-S (listed below Ê). Dimensions: Approximately (±) 3" width x 2" tall. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
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Crankcase Breather Oil Control Baffle Shield and Reed Stop. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 and various Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. Positions against reed valve inside of breather plate (listed below Ê). To be used with positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system breather vent hose/tube and large crankcase breather filter (oil trap) (part # 47 050 01-S; listed above È). OEM Kohler part # 270146-S.
Crankcase Breather External Oil Control Baffle Shield. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341 and various Kohler Magnum models M12, M14 and M16 with an open atmospheric vent in crankcase breather cover. Prevents loss of oil through crankcase breather cover vent hole. Positions against reed valve inside of breather plate (listed below Ê). To be used with crankcase breather cover with open atmospheric vent and small crankcase breather filter (oil trap) part # 235118-S (listed above È). OEM Kohler part # 235117-S.
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Crankcase Breather Reed Valve. Fits Kohler engine model K91. Replace damaged or rusted reed valve to prevent loss of oil through breather vent hole, prevent outside dust and dirt from being drawn into crankcase and maintain crankcase vacuum and proper ventilation so engine will produce more power and last longer.
Crankcase Breather Plate and Reed Valve Assembly. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Replace damaged or rusted breather plate/reed valve assembly to prevent loss of oil through breather vent hole, prevent outside dust and dirt from being drawn into crankcase and maintain crankcase vacuum and proper ventilation so engine will produce more power and last longer.
Crankcase Breather Reed Valve. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Replace damaged or rusted reed valve to prevent loss of oil through breather vent hole, prevent outside dust and dirt from being drawn into crankcase, and maintain crankcase vacuum so engine will produce more power. OEM Kohler part # 235047-S.
Old Style Replacement Neoprene Rubber Umbrella Check Valve and Crankcase Breather Plate w/Umbrella Check Valve used on Kohler KT-series and Magnum opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Replace deteriorated rubber umbrella check valve to prevent loss of oil through breather vent hole, prevent outside dust and dirt from entering crankcase and maintain crankcase vacuum so engine will produce more power. NOTE: The old style breather with the umbrella valve works just as well as the new style breather with the steel reed valve. So if the umbrella valve of your breather is damaged, it can be replaced. Also, it cost less to just replace the umbrella valve than the entire breather plate with the steel reed valve.
New Style Crankcase Breather Plate with Steel Reed Valve. Fits Kohler KT-series and Magnum opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Each replaces OEM Kohler part # 52 254 07. NOTE: The two items listed below Ê are basically the same with different part numbers and prices.
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Crankcase Breather Plate. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Prevents leaking oil and/or outside dust and dirt from entering crankcase and maintain crankcase vacuum so engine will produce more power. Has internal oil splash baffle shield spot-welded on backside of plate. OEM Kohler part # 235631-S.
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Crankcase Breather Cover and Kit. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K330/K331, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Replace bent, damaged or rusted cover to prevent leaking oil.
Crankcase Breather Cover. Fits Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361. Replace bent, damaged or rusted cover to prevent leaking oil. Accepts PCV breather vent hose/tube that connects to oblong-shaped metal air cleaner base. OEM Kohler part # 47 096 01-S.
1/4" NPT x 1/2" Barb 90º Angle Breather Fitting to convert Quiet Line PCV crankcase breather cover listed above È to open atmospheric vent. Use 1/4" NPT hand tap to cut threads in cover to accept this fitting. Made of brass.
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1/2" Metal Hole Plug. Use to block-off/plug the breather vent hose/tube hole in the base of the air cleaner on Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 when converting from positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system to open atmospheric venting. Plug prevents dust and dirt from entering the engine through the base of the air cleaner, resulting in excessive engine wear, which will lead to valve wear, smoking out the exhaust and oil burning. When the plug is installed in the hole, it will have a loose fit. Therefore, the locking tangs will need to be bent/flared outward to secure it permanently in place.
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Approximately 4" Unextended Length Neoprene Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Hose/Tube. Fits Kohler K-series "Quiet Line" engine model K181 with specification numbers 301000-301058, and Magnum M8 with specification numbers 301500-301656. Fastens between base of metal air cleaner/filter assembly and crankcase breather cover. Part of positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Vents back-pressure from inside crankcase into air intake and helps oil stay cleaner longer. Replace dry-rotted breather hose/tube to prevent dirty/dusty outside air from entering combustion chamber, which will cause excessive engine wear.
3-11/32" Overall Length Neoprene Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Hose/Tube. Fits various Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. Fastens between base of oblong-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly and crankcase breather cover. Part of positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Vents back-pressure from inside crankcase into air intake and helps oil stay cleaner longer. Replace dry-rotted breather hose/tube to prevent dirty/dusty outside air from entering combustion chamber, which will cause excessive engine wear.
3-17/32" Overall Length Neoprene Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Hose/Tube. Fits Kohler K-series "Quiet Line" engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361. Fastens between base of oblong-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly and crankcase breather cover. Part of positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Vents back-pressure from inside crankcase into air intake and helps oil stay cleaner longer. Replace dry-rotted breather hose/tube to prevent dirty/dusty outside air from entering combustion chamber, which will cause excessive engine wear.
3-29/32" Overall Length Neoprene Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Hose/Tube. Fits various Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. Fastens between base of oblong-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly and crankcase breather cover. Part of positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Vents back-pressure from inside crankcase into air intake and helps oil stay cleaner longer. Replace dry-rotted breather hose/tube to prevent dirty/dusty outside air from entering combustion chamber, which will cause excessive engine wear.
Neoprene Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Hoses/Tubes. Fits various opposed twin cylinder Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M18, M20, CV18, CV20, CV22, CV23, CV25, CV620, CV624, CV640, CV670, CV675, CV680, CV724, CV730, CV740, CV745 and CV750, according to specification number. Fastens between air cleaner base (opposed twins) or valve cover (OHV engines) and crankcase breather cover. Part of positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. Vents back-pressure from inside crankcase into air intake and helps oil stay cleaner longer. Replace dry-rotted breather hose/tube to prevent dirty/dusty outside air from entering combustion chamber, which will cause excessive engine wear.
Neoprene Rubber Crankcase Breather Vent Hoses/Tubes. Either hose/tube listed below can be used on Kohler AQS (Quiet Line) and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) crankcase breather cover to convert engine to open atmospheric vent when used with the round-shaped metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Makes a nice, distinctive look.
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FYI: The governor assembly to crankcase vent breather hoses/tubes (Kohler part #'s 277392-S and X-484-1-S) for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 are no longer available from Kohler. Use a neoprene rubber or vinyl hose or tubing of the appropriate size as a replacement. |
Cylinder Head Welding Repairs, New and Reconditioned OEM Kohler Cylinder Heads - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
A-1 Miller's Professional Valve Repair Service for Kohler Engine Model K361 Cylinder Head. [Top of Page] This service is for an engine that does not blow blue smoke out the exhaust and burn oil. Performing a professional valve job restores full compression, which allows the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly without stalling, and (if the ignition timing and carburetor adjustments are set correctly, too), it will produce full power at top governed speed. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs. And if you've ever wondered how the K361 rocker arms receive plenty of oil to keep them lubricated, when the engine is running at full governed speed, internal air pressure from the downward stroke of the piston forces crankcase oil through the pushrod tubes onto the rocker arms.
FYI - I have found that the Kohler K361 18hp OHV cylinder head use the longer 1-3/4" valve spring (uncompressed length; discontinued Kohler part # 235010-S) with rotators for both valves, the same spring that certain early K241, K301 and K321 engines use with the stamped retainer. And of course, certain later K241, K301, K321, and all K341 engines have the shorter 1-9/16" spring (uncompressed length; discontinued Kohler part # 235168-S) with the rotator. Anyway, the official Kohler parts manual says that the K361 use the shorter 1-9/16" springs (with rotators) for both valves, but apparently, it's wrong! It obviously requires the longer 1-3/4" springs (with rotators). And of all the K361 engines that I've rebuilt through the years, with the 1-3/4" springs and rotators installed, there is no coil bind. Coil bind is when the coils of the spring make contact with each other at maximum valve lift. I've had a customer send his K361 head to me for repairs, and when I spoke to him on the phone about his engine, he mentioned that the engine had always made a chattering/rattling sound at full governed speed and lacked sufficient power. So I checked the valve springs, and sure enough, it had the shorter 1-9/16" springs (with rotators). My customer was lucky it didn't drop a valve. That would've been a nightmare! So I installed a set of the longer 1-3/4" springs (with rotators). The valves felt stiffer when I pushed down on them with my hand, too. - Brian Miller |
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Resurface air-cooled small engine flathead or OHV cylinder head on large disc sander or wide, flat belt sander to remove warpage and restore flatness for better sealing of head gasket and prevent possibility of burning-out of [high dollar] head due to severe warpage. (Sanders are not just for woodworking.) Includes deburring of sharp edge around combustion chamber to prevent detonation or pre-ignition. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs. $10.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. NOTE - If it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for. |
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Mill approximately .050" from Kohler K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 or K341/M16 cylinder head to raise compression ratio approximately .75:1 to increase horsepower and torque. Includes remove prominent/raised gasket mating surface from head and deburr sharp edge around combustion chamber to prevent detonation or pre-ignition. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs. $25.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. NOTE: To lessen the chance of a blown or leaking head gasket, clean out the head bolt hole threads with a tap, and seal the head gasket with Copper RTV Silicone Sealant (VersaChem - Mega Copper Silicone, Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker or Copper SPRAY-A-GASKET Hi Temp Adhesive Sealant) on each side of the head gasket or cylinder head and engine block to prevent a blown or leaking head gasket. Because engine heat has very little effect on silicone rubber. It's made of fine-ground up heat-transferring compressible copper mixed with silicone. Walmart and most auto parts stores sell copper RTV silicone sealant. It doesn't matter which brand to use, they work the same. |
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Professionally weld up burned-out gasket surface in small engine cylinder head, resurface on a wide sanding belt to remove warpage and restore flatness, and redrill bolt hole, if needed. The welding process involves grinding away the impurities in the aluminum, and the aluminum welding becomes integrated with or part of the aluminum in the head, resulting in superior bonding with no separation whatsoever. NOTE - As long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded up, resurfaced, and the bolt hole redrilled. IMPORTANT - The two causes of a burn-out are: 1) Throttle shaft in the carburetor is severely worn, allowing extra air in the combustion chamber, which will lean out the air/fuel mixture at high RPMs; 2) The adjustable high speed main air/fuel mixture screw is set too lean; 3) The engine is ran above 3,200 RPM with a [Walbro] carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet. To prevent the burn-out from happening again, either of these things should be fixed correctly before the cylinder head (engine) is put back into service. $75.00 for welding and machining, plus return shipping & handling. If it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Drill out rusted-in/broken off [1/4"] bolt in cylinder head and retap threads for fastening of baffle shields (sheet metal) and/or brackets. No need to purchase another hard-to-find cylinder head that's in good condition. Also includes resurface head on a wide belt sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. NOTE: Always apply anti-seize compound on threads of bolt before installing. $10.00 each labor, plus return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt and spark plug torque specs. Also, if it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Install Heli-Coil thread repair insert in stripped-out 14mm spark plug hole if not larger than 5/8" in diameter. No need to purchase another hard-to-find high dollar cylinder head that's in good condition. 304 stainless steel w/200,000 psi tensile strength. Includes resurface head on a wide belt sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. $20.00 each for all parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt and spark plug torque specs. Also, if it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Weld up excessively enlarged spark plug threaded hole, machine [lump of] welding even with head, and professionally drill and tap new 14mm spark plug threads perpendicular with the head. The welding process involves grinding away the impurities in the aluminum, and the aluminum welding becomes integrated with or part of the aluminum in the head, resulting in superior bonding with no separation whatsoever. No need to purchase another hard-to-find high dollar cylinder head that's in good condition. Includes resurface head on a wide belt sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. $100.00 each for welding and machining, plus return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: To prevent stripping the threads, do not overtighten spark plug! Torque spark plug to 180-240 in. lb. or 15-20 ft. lb. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt and spark plug torque specs. Also, if it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for. Mill out exhaust valve cavity in LP and 2nd generation cylinder head to clear the larger 1-3/8" exhaust valve. $25.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
Cylinder Head. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. Cleaned and resurfaced on a wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. No cracks. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes for fastening of baffle shields (sheet metal) all in good condition. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt and spark plug torque specs. Also, if it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
1st Generation High Compression "LP" Cylinder Head. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 and K301/M12. This head can also be used on the early K321 engines with the small (1-1/8") exhaust valve. Rare, hard to find nowadays. The number embossed on this head is 235461. Requires 2" length head bolts. It has a heart-shaped combustion chamber with no depression over the piston. Spark plug located in middle of combustion chamber. Due to the location of the spark plug, this head is not designed for use on a K-series AQS (Quiet Line) engine. Cleaned and resurfaced on a wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. No cracks. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes for fastening of baffle shields (sheet metal) all in good condition. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt and spark plug torque specs. Also, if it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
1st Generation High Compression "LP" Cylinder Head. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10 and K301/M12. This head can also be used on the early K321 engines with the small (1-1/8") exhaust valve. Rare, hard to find nowadays. The number embossed on this head is 235461. Requires 2" length head bolts. It has a heart-shaped combustion chamber with no depression over the piston. Spark plug located in middle of combustion chamber. Due to the location of the spark plug, this head is not designed for use on a K-series AQS (Quiet Line) engine. Cleaned and resurfaced on a wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. No cracks. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes for fastening of baffle shields (sheet metal) all in good condition. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt and spark plug torque specs. Also, if it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
3rd Generation Cylinder Head. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. Spark plug located in middle of combustion chamber. Due to the location of the spark plug, this head is not designed for use on a K-series AQS (Quiet Line) engine. It has a D-shaped combustion chamber with a depression over the piston. Cleaned and resurfaced on a wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. No cracks. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes for fastening of baffle shields (sheet metal) all in good condition. Requires 1-1/2" length head bolts. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt and spark plug torque specs. Also, if it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
4th Generation Cylinder Head. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. Spark plug located over exhaust valve. It has a D-shaped combustion chamber with a depression over the piston. Mostly used on the K-series AQS (Quiet Line) engines. Cleaned and resurfaced on a wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. No cracks. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes for fastening of baffle shields (sheet metal) all in good condition. Each requires 1-1/2" length head bolts. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt and spark plug torque specs. Also, if it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
Kohler engine model K341 16hp Cylinder Head. Cleaned and resurfaced on a wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. No cracks. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes for fastening of baffle shields (sheet metal) all in good condition. Requires 1-1/2" length head bolts. . Also, if it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
Kohler engine model K361 (OHV 18hp) Cylinder Head. Cleaned and resurfaced on a wide sanding belt or large diameter disc sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. No cracks. Cooling fins, spark plug threads and bolt holes for fastening of baffle shields (sheet metal) all in good condition. Valve seats and/or valve guides repaired. Requires 1-1/2" length head bolts. NOTE: If it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
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Baffle Mounting Bracket. Fits Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K241, K301 and K321. Used on Cub Cadet garden tractor models 680, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, and various other makes and models of garden tractors. This part mounts on the farthest cylinder head bolt located on the right side of the engine (when facing the flywheel) for fastening the baffle shields (sheet metal) on the top of the cylinder head, side of the cylinder, and ignition coil bracket. A-1 Miller's fabricated part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 47 126 04-S, and discontinued Cub Cadet part #'s IH-117231-C1, KH-47-126-04-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
High Quality Cylinder Head Bolts and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. OEM Kohler head bolts can be reused multiple times. They will not stretch overtime and are not "torque to yield." But replace bolts with eroded, rusted heads to prevent socket from slipping so bolt will torque down correctly. 5/16" diameter x 1-1/2" thread length grade 8 bolts and hardened washers. NOTES: Clean the threads in the block with a 5/16-18 UNC plug hand tap so the bolts will torque correctly. Then apply motor oil on the threads and torque each bolt to 240 in. lbs. or 20 ft. lbs. Liquid threadlocker is not necessary. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs.
High Quality Cylinder Head Bolts and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models MV16, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. OEM Kohler head bolts can be reused multiple times. They will not stretch overtime and are not "torque to yield." But replace bolts with eroded, rusted heads to prevent socket from slipping so bolt will torque down correctly. 5/16" diameter x 1-1/2" thread length grade 8 bolts and hardened washers. NOTES: Clean the threads in the block with a 5/16-18 UNC plug hand tap so the bolts will torque correctly. Then apply motor oil on the threads and torque each bolt to 240 in. lbs. or 20 ft. lbs. Liquid threadlocker is not necessary. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs.
High Quality Cylinder Head Bolts and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 listed below. OEM Kohler head bolts can be reused multiple times. They will not stretch overtime and are not "torque to yield." But replace bolts with eroded, rusted heads to prevent socket from slipping so bolt will torque down correctly. NOTES: Clean the threads in the block with a 3/8-16 UNC plug hand tap then apply motor oil on the threads of the bolts so the bolts will torque correctly. Torque each bolt to 360 in. lbs. or 30 ft. lbs. Liquid threadlocker is not necessary. And the length of any bolt (or screw) do not include the bolt head itself. They are measured from under the head to end of the threads. Bolt lengths listed below Ê is determined by type of cylinder head used. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs.
High Quality Aftermarket Single Cylinder Head Stud Kits. These studs can be reused multiple times. They will not stretch overtime and are not "torque to yield." Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with an OEM or Billet Head. Each kit includes 3/8" diameter x 2" or 2-3/4" length high quality heat-treated studs, grade 8 nuts and hardened flat washers. I can also make the head studs any length you want. The ones that's listed here are the most common lengths. When installed correctly and torqued to specs, head studs provide even torque pressure for better head gasket sealing. Plus, with a thinner cylinder wall with a huge, oversized piston, they help maintain cylinder wall stability and straightness for better ring seal to lessen the loss of compression. Thoroughly tested for several years of continuous use under pulling conditions, for Kohler engine models, hardened and heat-treated coarse thread studs, along with grade 8 nuts and washers, works just fine, with no problems. The nuts maintain their torque as long as they're tightened to the correct torque specs. And make sure at least 3/4" of threads are in the block so the cylinder wall will not distort and threads in block will not strip out when the nuts are torqued to specs. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs. (Cast iron is weaker than hardened steel.) Also, the flat washers goes under the nuts to distribute even pressure across head. IMPORTANT: As with any threaded stud, apply medium strength liquid threadlocker (Blue Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) on threads that goes in the block to prevent stud from loosening. FYI - When storing an opened container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue, store it upright and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. Thread stud 3/4" into the block. Use a hardened flat washer under nut to distribute load across head and apply motor oil on exposed threads so nut will torque correctly. Torque each nut to 360 in. lbs. or 30 ft. lbs. in correct sequence. Also, stud length is determined by type of cylinder head. The OEM head with short bolt holes require 2" length studs, the head with tall bolt holes require 2-3/4" length studs. Please indicate length of studs when placing order. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
OEM Kohler Cylinder Head Studs. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 and K341/M16. Dimensions of each stud: 3/8-16 UNC threads; 3-1/4" overall length; short threaded length: 5/8"; long threaded length: 1-7/8". NOTE: OEM Kohler head studs can be reused multiple times. They will not stretch overtime and are not "torque to yield." IMPORTANT: As with any threaded stud, apply medium strength liquid threadlocker (Blue Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) on threads that goes in the block and tighten with pliers to prevent stud from loosening. FYI - When storing an opened container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue, store it upright and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. Use a hardened flat washer under nut to distribute load across head and apply motor oil on exposed threads so nut will torque correctly. Torque each nut to 360 in. lbs. or 30 ft. lbs. in correct sequence.
Steel Spacer for Studs listed above. Use with OEM Kohler single cylinder engine cylinder heads with the recessed bolt hole bosses when using a gas tank mounting bracket or other kind of flat bracket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 25 112 14-S and X-400-71-S. Dimensions: 13/32" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. x 23/32" height.
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Cooling Fan, Reconditioned OEM Kohler Flywheels, Crankshafts and Main Bearings - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
High Velocity 12 Volt Engine Cooling Fan. Use an electric cooling fan when engine has a steel flywheel with no cooing fins. Draws 2.6 amps, produces 145 CFM. Measures 3" diameter and 5" length. Best to fasten fan on a sturdy angle steel support bracket in front of engine or behind grille in a Cub Cadet garden tractor. Motor is 100% secured and reinforced in plastic fan housing tunnel to withstand severe engine vibrations. Motor will not loosen or become inoperable when pulling. No need to install rubber mounting grommets. These will serve no purpose whatsoever. IMPORTANT: Do not run fan while pulling because the internal brushes could break due to normal engine vibration. Turn fan on ONLY between pull-offs or when tuning engine.
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Kohler K181 Flywheel for the 5-1/2" 15/20 Amp Charging Stator. Replace damaged flywheel, or use this type of flywheel with the 5-1/2" stator to convert a K181 engine with a stator containing a failed magneto ignition coil integrated with a weak output 10 amp charging coils under the flywheel to the battery-powered ignition system. OEM Kohler part # 41 025 17-S.
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Precision Dynamic Spin-Balancing Service -
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Balance Gear Needle Bearings. For believers in using balance gears. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 and M16.
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A-1 Miller's Crankshaft Machine Repair Service - (Added 2/3/21)
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Flywheel Retaining Nuts for 5/8" or 3/4" threaded stud on end of Kohler K-series and billet steel crankshafts. IMPORTANT: Apply thin coat of motor oil on threads of crankshaft before installing nut, then torque each nut to 65 ft. lbs.
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Flywheel Retaining Bolt and Washer Kit. Fits Kohler and various other makes and models of small engines with a 3/8" threaded hole in flywheel end of crankshaft. Includes: 3/8-24 UNF grade 8 bolt, split lock washer and extra thick flat washer. IMPORTANT: Apply thin coat of motor oil in threads of bolt, then torque to 40 ft. lb. High quality aftermarket. Replaces OEM Kohler part #'s 25 068 04, 25 068 24, 47 086 16, 47 086 18, 52 068 25 (bolt) and 12 468 03-S, 52 114 02, 52 468 15 (washer). $5.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. | Safety Retaining Bolt and Washer Kit for Starter Pulley on PTO end of crankshaft or Harmonic Balancer on automotive crankshaft (mini rod). Prevents starter pulley or harmonic balancer from dislodging on crankshaft, and becoming an airborne projectile, which can cause serious injury to a bystander or spectator. Kit includes: 3/8-24 UNF or 7/16-28 UNF grade 8 bolt, split lock washer and 1-3/8" O.D. flat washer. Please indicate if you need the kit for a 3/8" or 7/16" bolt. A-1 Miller's aftermarket parts. $5.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling. |
Extra Thick Flywheel / Aluminum Hub Adapter Retaining Washers. A thick, wide washer is a must to secure flywheel and prevent clutch/driveshaft aluminum hub adapter breakage. Each made of steel and measures 1-1/4" O.D. x approximately 1/4" thick.
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Adapter Step Washer. Use this part to center OEM cast aluminum or billet hub adapter with a 5/8" hole to a crankshaft with the 3/8" bolt on later model Kohler K-series and all Magnum engines. A must to prevent severe wobble/vibration and prevent hub and/or driveshaft/clutch breakage. Dimensions: 3/8" I.D. x 5/8" O.D. step x approximately 1-1/4" overall O.D. x 1/2" overall height. Professionally machined by A-1 Miller's.
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Cub Cadet hub adapters with 5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/pulley, w/dowel pin.
Cub Cadet hub adapters with 5/8" center hole (early K-series), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
Cub Cadet hub adapters with 3/8" center hole (later K-series, all KT-series and Magnum), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
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1/4" diameter x 3/4" length hardened steel dowel pin for OEM Kohler and billet aluminum hub adapters. Secures aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. Replaces Cub Cadet part # KH-X-56-7 and Kohler part # X-56-7. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. | |
Square Aluminum Flywheel/Crankshaft Key. Made of 6061 medium-grade hardness alloy aluminum. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 made in 1973 and later. Helps prevent damage of keyway in crankshaft and/or prevents the possibility of cracking/breaking of factory cast iron flywheel due to sudden crankshaft lock-up in the event of connecting rod failure. Dimensions: 3/16" square x 1-3/8" length. IMPORTANT: Thoroughly clean tapers inside flywheel and on crankshaft before installing flywheel! An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Kohler [steel key] part # X-286-17-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Rectangular Steel Flywheel/Crankshaft Key. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301 and K321 made in 1972 and earlier with the 8" diameter flywheel and starter/generator. Also fits Kohler engine models K330/K331. Dimensions: 3/16" wide x 1/4" tall x 1-3/8" length. IMPORTANT: Thoroughly clean tapers inside flywheel and on crankshaft before installing flywheel!
Square Steel Flywheel/Crankshaft Keys. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 made in 1973 and later. Dimensions: 3/16" square x 1-3/8" length. IMPORTANT: Thoroughly clean tapers inside flywheel and on crankshaft before installing flywheel!
Woodruff (Semicircular) Steel Flywheel/Crankshaft Key. Fits most OHV aluminum block Kohler engines. Dimensions: 3/16" wide x 5/8" length. IMPORTANT: Thoroughly clean tapers inside flywheel and on crankshaft before installing flywheel!
Woodruff (Semicircular) Steel Keys for Flywheel/Crankshaft and Gear Reduction Shaft on certain Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, and all Magnum models M10, M12, M14, M16, and models CH13 and CH15. Dimensions: 3/16" wide x 1" length. IMPORTANT: Thoroughly clean tapers inside flywheel and on crankshaft before installing flywheel!
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Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs, Oil Filter Adapter, Oil Filters and OEM Kohler Cast Aluminum and Cast Iron Oil Pans - Please contact me if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs with Tapered Threads and Square Head listed below. A-1 Miller's oil drain plugs have a super strong rare earth/neodymium magnet. Five times stronger than competitor's ceramic (ferrite) magnet and resists demagnetization. Plugs listed below can be used on various other makes and models of transmissions, transaxles, gearboxes and small engines. Tapered threads requires no sealing gasket or sealant, and threads will not strip out when tightened. To avoid cracking oil pan, do not over-tighten! When in doubt, use plumber's thread sealing tape to insure proper sealing of threads to prevent a possible oil leak. Universal application. Magnet attracts and removes ferrous metallic wear fragments from the motor oil or transmission/gearbox to reduce engine or gear/bearing wear. Sometimes some of the ferrous wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. The engine will last much longer due to cleaner oil. Magnetic drain plugs are suitable for engines with splash oil lubrication (no oil pump/filter). Remember - Metal flake looks good in paint, not in oil. 1/8" NPT Oil Level and Drain Plug. (0.405" O.D. tapered threads.) Install on side of MTD-built Cub Cadet aluminum housing creeper drive as oil level for better lubrication of unit with SAE 90 weight gear oil. Install another plug on bottom of unit to drain/change the oil. Entire unit must be completely disassembled, and a hole midway on the side and on the bottom must be drilled and threaded with an 1/8" NPT hand tap for the plugs. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 1/4" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (0.540" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Kohler and Tecumseh engines. A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-75-2. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs. (0.675" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits various Briggs & Stratton, Kohler and Tecumseh engines. A-1 Miller's part. Replaces Kohler part # X-305-4-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/8" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs. (0.675" O.D. tapered threads.) OEM Kohler part # X-305-4-S. $18.35 each, plus shipping & handling. 1/2" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (0.840" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits side of oil pan on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8 engines, and oil drain on Cub Cadet garden tractor transaxles and various automotive manual shift transmissions. A-1 Miller's part. Not available from Kohler. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/4" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (1.050" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits various Briggs & Stratton and Kohler engines. A-1 Miller's part. Not available from Kohler. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 5/8" I.D. Fiber Sealing Gasket. Fits OEM Kohler 3/8" NPT Oil Drain Plug with Hex Head. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 241063. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/4-10 UNC (Straight Threads) Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. Use to replace OEM Kohler 3/8" NPT oil drain plug with stripped threads in [aluminum] oil pan. Includes fiber sealing gasket. NOTE: Threads in oil pan must be enlarged with a 3/4-10 UNC hand tap. A-1 Miller's part. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
Super Strong Rare Earth/Neodymium Magnets for Engines, Transmissions, Transaxles and Gearboxes. Attracts and removes ferrous metallic wear fragments from the lubricating oil inside an engine that does not have an oil pump with an oil filter, or inside a transmission, transaxle or gearbox to lessen wear and noise to gears and bearings. Sometimes some of the wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan, engine block or gearbox and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. Engine or gears/bearings will last longer due to cleaner oil. Install magnet in bottom of oil pan away from the oil dipper and any moving parts, or in bottom of a transmission, transaxle or gearbox away from rotating gears and any moving parts. Use Krazy Glue, Super Glue, Gorilla Glue, or any industrial strength adhesive to secure magnet in place. These rare earth/neodymium magnets are EXTREMELY strong! Use caution when handling! Can be difficult to remove from a steel or cast iron surface, are very brittle and can break easily if mishandled. Remember - Metal flake looks good in paint, not in oil. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
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Oil Filter Adapter Kit. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18,0 MV18, M20 and MV20. (Will not fit KT17 (first design) or KT19 (first design) engines because there is no provision on the block for an oil filter adapter.) Oil filter not included with kit; order separately (listed below). Having an oil filter helps the engine last much longer between oil changes by filtering out or removing small metallic wear fragments and contaminants from the oil that can cause excessive wear to the pistons, piston rings, cylinder walls, and especially the PTO end main journal on the crankshaft, resulting in low oil pressure, and possibly a burnt #1 connecting rod. Remember - Metal flake looks good in paint, not in oil. NOTE: Use the 1/8" NPT Allen pipe plug (Kohler part # 25 139 60-S) with kit on model M18 engines w/specification # 24532, after serial # 1835400002 (1988 and later) to block-off the hole in the adapter body if the engine is not equipped with a low oil shut-off sensor, oil pressure switch or oil pressure gauge.
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Each oil filter listed below provides superior filtration for less internal engine wear, and fits virtually all OHV single cylinder and V-twin Briggs & Stratton, Kawasaki, Kohler, and opposed twin cylinder Kohler engines. Including Kohler engine models CH11, CH12.5, CH13, CH14, CH15, CH15, CH16, CH18, CH20, CH22, CH25, CH620, CH621, CH640, CH641, CH670, CH680, CH682, CH730, CH732, CH735, CH740, CH742, CH745, CH750, CH752, CH940, CH960, CH980, CH1000, CV1000, CV12.5, CV13, CV14, CV15, CV16, CV18, CV20, CV22, CV25, CV620, CV640, CV670, CV680, CV682, CV730, CV732, CV740, CV742, CV745, CV750, CV752, CV940, CV960, CV980, ECH630, ECH650, ECH680, ECH740, ECH749, ECH985, ECV630, ECV650, ECV680, ECV730, ECV749, ECV850, ECV860, ECV870, ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, EKT740, EKT750, ELH775, EZT715, EZT725, EZT740, EZT750, KT600, KT610, KT620, KT715, KT725, KT730, KT740, KT745, LH685, LH690, LH775, LV680, PCH740, PCV680, PCV740, SV470, SV471, SV480, SV540, SV541, SV590, SV591, SV600, SV601, SV620, SV710, SV720, SV725, SV730, SV735, SV840, TH16, TH18, TH575, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532, K582 and K662. Has filter listed below has a 7-9 PSI pressure relief valve, and an anti-drain-back valve to minimize dry engine starts. Apply motor oil on rubber seal before installing and tighten securely to prevent oil seepage.
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Repair Service: Repair stripped aluminum oil pan mounting bolt hole threads. No need to purchase another oil pan! $5.00 each for all parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain, but can be drilled and tapped in thick metal boss for side drain if desired to meet equipment's specification. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Heli-Coil thread repair inserts installed if necessary. This will fit all IH-built Cub Cadet garden tractors, and John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines. Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs 1.3 lb. Discontinued Kohler part # 237588-S.
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Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Flat Bottom Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain, but can be drilled and tapped in thick metal boss for side drain if desired to meet equipment's specification. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. This is also an exact replacement for John Deere models 110, 112 and early model 210 with the Kohler K241 engines. Model 112 serial number 100,001 – 250,000, 110 serial number 250,001 and up with the Kohler K241 engine, and 210 up to serial number 95,261. These will also fit Wheel Horse garden tractors. Clean and in excellent condition, including good bolt threads. Holds 1 quart of oil. Weighs 4.1 lb. Discontinued Kohler part # 235352.
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Cast Aluminum, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pans. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain only. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Heli-Coil thread repair inserts installed if necessary. Suitable for general lawn and garden use or 4,000 RPM stock competition pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Weighs 1.85 lb. Discontinued Kohler part # 47 199 09-S.
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Cast Iron, Narrow Base, Deep Sump Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a narrow base block, or if the flanges have been cut off, and the block is converted for use with a narrow base oil pan. Comes with bottom drain only. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. Suitable for general yard and garden engines for durability and for stroker competition pulling engines. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Holds 1-1/2 quarts of oil. Weighs 5.4 lb. Discontinued Kohler part # 236328.
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Cast Iron,Wide Base, Oil Pan. Fits Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with a wide base/flanged block. Comes with side drain, but can be drilled and tapped in bottom for bottom drain if desired to meet equipment's specification. Clean and in excellent condition, with good bolt thread holes and no cracks. These come on various makes of tractors such as: Ariens, Wheel Horse, some Ford, some Jacobsen, Gravely, New Holland, Sears Suburban, Engineering Products Co. (Economy models) and Allis Chalmers. NOTE: For better lubrication, these oil pans require a full length oil dipper on the connecting rod. Holds 2 quarts of oil.
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Exhaust Gaskets, Complete Header Pipe Kits and Adapters - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181 with 1-9/16" bolt hole spacing. OEM Kohler part # 231090-S. $3.75 each, plus shipping & handling. Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 with 1-11/16" bolt hole spacing. OEM Kohler part # 41 041 01-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling. Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. OEM Kohler part # 235122-S. $6.60 each, plus shipping & handling. Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine model K361. OEM Kohler part # 45 041 12-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Exhaust port gasket for the K90/K91 (part # 220122-S) and K341 (part # 45 041 12-S) engines are discontinued from Kohler. | |
Exhaust Manifold-to-Cylinder Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. 1-3/4" offset bolt hole spacing.
| Exhaust Manifold to Block Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models K482, K532 and K582.
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A-1 Miller's Machine Shop Service - Drill and tap two 5/16-18 UNC threaded holes in exhaust flange on engine block to install custom bolt-on exhaust system or header pipe (listed below). Service is for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 or K341/M16. NOTE: For accuracy and precision of holes to be drilled, crankshaft and bearing plate must be removed from engine to fasten block in fabricated fixture on the table of milling machine. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service for a Kohler engine block. $60.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. A-1 Miller's Machine Shop Service - Remove or drill out broken exhaust bolt(s) and recut 5/16-18 UNC threads for installation of new bolts or studs in exhaust flange on engine block to install custom bolt-on exhaust system or header pipe (listed below). Service is for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 or K341/M16. NOTE: If broken bolt(s) needs to be drilled out, for accuracy and precision of holes to be drilled, crankshaft and bearing plate must be removed from engine to fasten block in fabricated fixture on the table of milling machine. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service for a Kohler engine block. $15.00 - $60.00 labor (depending on difficulty of work involved), plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground.
A-1 Miller's Machine Shop Service - Resurface exhaust flange on engine block to ensure 100% sealing of header mounting flange to prevent from loosening due to a heavily rusted, uneven, rough surface. NOTE: For accuracy, crankshaft and bearing plate must be removed from engine to fasten block in fabricated fixture on the table of milling machine. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service for a Kohler engine block. $30.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. | |
High Quality Durable Mufflers. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14, and Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh and various other makes and models of larger small engines. Each coated with weather-proof and heat-resistant paint. Dimension of mufflers: approximately 3-1/4" x 3-1/4".
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Bolt-On Header Pipe Kits. Fits Kohler Engine Models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. For competition pulling engines with stock-size or oversize valves running at 4,000 RPM or at wide open throttle. High grade durable and galvanized-coated mild steel pipe resists rust and will not rust or discolor, even from exhaust heat. Has a 90º, 4" radius bend; each pipe extends 8" from exhaust port to midway of bend for plenty of hood clearance and measures 18" upward from midway of bend. Kit includes 1-5/16" O.D. x 1.260" I.D. x 24" overall length header pipe, 2-1/2" O.D. x 1-5/16" I.D. x 5/16"± thickness round mounting flange and two 5/16-18 UNC Allen head bolts. Flange fastens directly to engine block without a round mounting adapter and clamp, just like automotive engines with headers. No gasket required; use RTV clear silicone sealant instead. (Silicone is heat-resistant, it will NOT burn out, even with extreme heat.)
Bolt-On Header Pipe Kits for Kohler Engine Models K341/M16. For competition pulling engines with stock-size or oversize valves running at 4,000 RPM or at wide open throttle. High grade durable and galvanized-coated mild steel pipe resists rust and will not rust or discolor, even from exhaust heat. Has a 90º, 4" radius bend; each pipe extends 8" from exhaust port to midway of bend for plenty of hood clearance and measures 18" upward from midway of bend. Kit includes 1-1/2" O.D. x 1-3/8" I.D. x 30" overall length header pipe, 2-3/4" O.D. x 1-1/2" I.D. x 3/16"± thickness round mounting flange and two 5/16-18 UNC grade 8 hex head bolts. 1" length of pipe inserts inside exhaust port covering internal NPT threads for unrestricted airflow. Flange fastens directly to engine block without a round mounting adapter and clamp, just like automotive engines with headers. No gasket required; use RTV clear silicone sealant instead. (Silicone is heat-resistant, it will NOT burn out, even with extreme heat.)
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Machine Shop Services. (Prices listed below Ê are with the engine out of the tractor and on my work table.) [Top of Page]
Engine Block -
Convert 10-16hp Kohler wide base block to narrow base, for use in a garden tractor requiring a narrow base engine block. (Cub Cadet, Ford, John Deere, Wheel Horse, etc.) See pictures shown below Ê An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service for a Kohler engine block.
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A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Perform Valve Job Only on opposed twin cylinder Kohler KT-series and Magnum engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. This service is for an engine that does not blow blue smoke out the exhaust and burn oil. Performing a professional valve job restores full compression, which allows the engine to start quicker, idle smooth without stalling, and it will have full power at top governed speed. Labor includes: regrind four valve faces and seats, lap in valves with valve lapping compound, reset valve clearances to factory specifications (on short block only), resurface both cylinder heads on a wide sanding belt to remove warpage and restore flatness, reinstall intake manifold and governor linkage. And being some valve guides wear beyond specifications, there will be an extra charge for installing and reaming new guides, if needed. The baffle shields (sheet metal), muffler, intake manifold and governor linkage will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine/short block to A-1 Miller's shop. To save on shipping cost, only the cylinders (removed from the crankcase) and valves can be shipped in two 12-1/4" x 12-1/4" x 6" USPS Large Flat Rate Boxes. Place one box inside the other to double the strength, and use rigid packing material under, over and around/between the parts to prevent any of the fins from breaking off during shipment. But the short block must be shipped in a sturdy wooden crate. Or If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.) Prices listed below with your cylinder heads/jugs or engine on my work table. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in having a professional valve job performed on your KT17, KT17 Series II, KT19, KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 cylinder heads/jugs or engine.
Regrind your [45º] intake valve at 30º angle and undercut head for more airflow. $17.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. Regrind seat in your single cylinder block or OHV head to OEM angle or 30º angle: $5.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Professional Valve Job - Remove both valves, regrind valve faces and seats to factory specs, lap in valves, reset valve clearances, and reinstall valves on a single cylinder Kohler engine. $50.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Perform performance valve job on two stock valves and seats in single cylinder OEM [Kohler] block for improved airflow: $40.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price includes regrinding the exhaust valve and seat at 45º/46º angles, intake valve and seat at 30º/31º angles respectively and undercutting both valve heads. Install oversize valves in single cylinder OEM [Kohler] block: $150.00 - $200.00 (depending size of valves) labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price does not include any parts. Install stock size valves in single cylinder Kohler-replicated aftermarket block with small uncut valve pockets: $150.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price does not include any parts. Install oversize valves in single cylinder Kohler-replicated aftermarket block with small uncut valve pockets: $200.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price does not include any parts. Enlarge and Polish Intake and Exhaust Port Runners -
Install 1-3/8" exhaust valve in 10, 12 and older 14hp OEM Kohler block: $50.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Install oversize valves, and enlarge/polish intake and exhaust runners in single cylinder (OEM [Kohler] block): $175.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Install oversize valves, and enlarge/polish intake and exhaust runners in single cylinder (Kohler-replicated aftermarket block): $300.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Install thin-wall bronze sleeves/liners in worn OEM valve guides in single cylinder Kohler and other makes of engines. $12.00 each, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Bronze valve guide sleeves/liners are an alternative to replacing the entire guide in Kohler engines. Bronze also last longer than Kohler's cast iron guides because bronze retains more oil for better lubrication of the valve stem. Install OEM-type [centered] cast iron valve guide or offset valve guide in single cylinder OEM Kohler block and ream for clearance of valve stem: $15.00 each labor only, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price does not include guide. Install bronze offset valve guide in single cylinder OEM Kohler block and ream for clearance of valve stem: $15.00 each labor only, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price does not include guide. Oversize valve MUST be used with an offset guide. |
''Round Up'' Crankshaft Rod Journal(s) and Resize Connecting Rod(s) - This service is for most makes and models of small engines when an undersize connecting rod or bearing inserts isn't available, if the crankshaft is worn beyond .010" and needs to be reground again, the journal can be reground to wherever it "cleans up" or is true again, then the connecting rod can be resized so it'll fit the smaller undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. To resize the rod so it'll fit to a few thousands of an inch smaller diameter crank journal, first, metal is removed from the mating end of the rod cap, then the cap is fasten to the rod. The big hole in the rod is now oblong or "egg shaped." Then the big hole in the rod is honed until it's .002" larger than the diameter of the crank journal. Honing reshapes the hole into a perfect circle again, only smaller in diameter. This works very well and it lasts as long as an ordinary STD size rod and crank journal. This can only be performed on a rod with a good bearing surface. It cannot be done on a burnt or heavily scored connecting rod because too much metal would need to be removed. If you're interested, I will need your crankshaft and connecting rod(s). NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to make less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. NOTE: Once installed and in operation, there is no warranty or guarantee of any kind on crankshaft regrinds. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this service.
Crankshaft Regrinding -This service includes Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh, etc.
Repair damaged or broken off threaded stud on flywheel end of crankshaft with installation of 3/8" or 7/16" grade 8 UNF bolt. $50.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. Repair damaged or broken off threaded stud on flywheel end of crankshaft with installation of hardened 7/16" or 5/8" UNF stud. Resembles original stud on end of crankshaft.$75.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. Center drill and cut threads in PTO end of crankshaft for installation of 3/8" UNF grade 8 bolt. $50.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. |
Replace Rubber ISO-Mounts With a Set of Solid Motor Mounts in a Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" Garden Tractor to Prevent Repeated and Costly Damage to the Clutch Components! An original, ingenious, innovative concept invention by Brian Miller, because I was the one who originally thought of, promoted and advertised the use of this product. Please accept no copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) Details include:
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Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" Engine Mounting Rubber Snubbers/Bumpers and Rubber ISO-Mounts. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor models 482, 800, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1340, 1450 and 1650. All these models have a rubber ISO-mounted engine to reduce overall tractor vibration for operator comfort. The rubber ISO-mounts can be adapted for use on various other makes and models of small engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]
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Engine Rebuilding and Custom Engine Build-up Services for General Lawn & Garden Equipment, Go-Karts, King Midget, Older Small All Terrain Vehicles, Older Snowmobiles, etc. | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Small engine technology has changed a lot since the Kohler K-series and Magnum engines were made. I can rebuild your lawn and garden engine (or competition pulling engine) with new technological parts so it'll produce more power and last longer than the factory anticipated. I also build engines from scratch and rebuild customer's complete engines from factory stock, to 4,000± RPM governed, to wide open throttle Hot-Stock and Stock-Altered competition pulling engines. I can build a quality, competition engine for you, or rebuild your engine however you want. Just tell A-1 Miller's know how you're going to use your tractor or equipment and I'll build your engine to suit your needs. And if it's required in your association/club sanctioning engine rules or not, ALWAYS install a safety shield made of adequate thickness and material for each side of the engine fastened to the tractor frame securely in case of connecting rod failure (Murphy's Law), so an innocent bystander or spectator won't be injured or killed from high-speed projected metal shrapnel.
I don't have any rebuilt Kohler short blocks or engines in stock. And if I did, chances are, they probably wouldn't be designed for your garden tractor or equipment. Because Kohler engines are made specifically to fit a certain model of garden tractor or equipment. They are not a "universal fit" or "one fits all". Therefore, it'll be best to have your engines rebuilt instead. Then all the brackets, accessories and electrical wiring will reconnect to your garden tractor or equipment with no modifications.
Also, I set the air/fuel adjusters on all carburetors just so the engine will start and run, but because of the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, the customer will need to make the final bore.) OEM so the engine will run smooth. No carburetor with an adjustable high speed main fuel adjuster comes preset, not even new ones.
Furthermore, just to let you know, although I use the best parts, use caution on choosing the right motor oil to use in your engine. Because the government (tree huggers/Sierra club) is requiring oil companies to lessen the amount of zinc in their motor oils to reduce pollution. Zinc provides a protective coating on internal engine parts and prevents metal to metal contact for proper break-in and it helps the parts last longer. Many auto manufacturers and professional engine rebuilders are upset because of this too, because they have to guarantee their engines for a certain period of time, and many of them take pride in building their engines.
Regarding an Engine Build Estimate -
I am very meticulous in how I rebuild and build engines. If you would like to have A-1 Miller's build, rebuild or build-up your engine, I will need a detailed list of exactly what you want done to your engine or a copy of your association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements regarding the engine requirements before I can give you an estimate on the cost. And if you (the customer), change your mind of how you want the engine built or rebuilt in the middle of a build, I will need to know ahead of time and I will need the changes in writing so I can make the necessary changes to the engine. Otherwise, this will effect how well the engine performs on the track, and it would make me, as a professional engine builder, look bad. It's not a good thing to be afraid that something bad may happen to an engine. Having confidence in an engine makes ya feel good, but having confidence in your engine builder makes ya feel better.
A-1 Miller's competition pulling engines will be coated with high quality gloss black paint (most common factory color), International Cub Cadet yellow paint, or the color of your choice. When you receive your engine, install the baffle shields (sheet metal), brackets and everything else on the engine, install the engine in the tractor, add motor oil to the proper level, install the fuel hose, add fuel, connect the ignition and starter wires, connect the throttle/choke cable controls, and the engine will be ready to start. Carburetor adjustments will be initially preset just so the engine will start and run, but due to the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, the final idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer after the engine is started and warmed up to operating temperature.
Whenever I rebuild or build-up an engine, and if you would like to do so, I do whatever it takes so it'll produce the factory-rated horsepower or the maximum horsepower and torque, and last a long time. I go beyond what the repair manual says to do. I can get all the parts needed, too. I can build your engine so it'll be legal for the class you plan to pull in. And with my engine rebuilds and build-ups, you may not always win, but you'll look good trying! By the way - the surface of the exhaust area of a fresh-built engine may burn off the oil residue for a short time once it gets hot, but it'll stop after a while. It's nothing to worry about. This happens with most rebuilt engines, especially an engine with fresh paint.
I do not build illegal competition pulling engines that do not conform to your association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements! But there are certain other engine builders that offer new pulling engines for sale. BUT, being different pulling associations/clubs have different engine rules and requirements, there is no "one pulling engine that conforms to each and every clubs' rules and requirements." Therefore, you may receive an engine that do not conform to your association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements, and it may be built "above the rules". Meaning it's not legal within your association/club sanctioning rules and requirements and is illegal to run in the class you plan to pull it in (cheater engine). Or, the engine in question may be built "below the rules" so it's less competitive as an engine that is built to the max legally according to the rules and requirements. But I'll build your engine or an engine for you so it'll produce the maximum horsepower and torque in accordance with your association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements, not less than what the rules and requirements allow. I also rebuild ordinary/stock lawn and garden equipment engines too, such as cast iron and cast aluminum block single- and twin-cylinder flathead, OHV and V-twin Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh and 2-cycle LawnBoy. I've never encountered an engine that I couldn't repair, rebuild or build-up/modify with more horsepower and torque!
FYI - Being I'm the only person to read and respond to all my customer's emails (about 20 or so per day), take my customer's phone call orders (about 20-30 on a nice day with good weather), with customers stopping by my shop, repair and rebuild my customer's parts and engines in my shop, locate hard-to-find engine parts, order parts from my suppliers, process orders, package parts then mail customer's parts at my local Post Office, etc., it may take A-1 Miller's several months to rebuild an engine. It also takes time to perform precision machine work and manual workmanship on an engine rebuild, especially for a competition pulling engine, and I wouldn't want to do a rush job. I also have to depend on other local machine shops to perform various machine work and balance rotating engine parts. All this takes time. I tried hiring different people to help me in my shop, but it seems a lot of people don't fully understand about most of the parts and services that I offer. I never fired anyone. They all quit on me. So please keep this in mind if you decide to have A-1 Miller's rebuild/build up your engine. Also, I don't like to rush on my customer's repair jobs. I'm very particular about my work, especially my engine builds. I like to take my time to make sure that everything is right, the engine will run right, produce full power and last a long time. I appreciate for you understanding my situation. - Brian Miller
FYI - Used OEM parts in good condition for older Kohler engines are hard to find now, especially the small parts. If the parts don't wear, they tend to get thrown away and then "engine scrappers" sell the parts that do wear on places like eBay. They don't think about people like me, who make a living by "piecing together" or building engines from scratch for a customer. I can purchase new parts from Kohler if they're still available, but that would be cost-prohibitive. I try to keep my engine builds at reasonable prices. - Brian Miller
All of A-1 Miller's customer's competition pulling engine builds are strictly confidential! This means the people you pull against will not know what goes into your engine.
Below Ê are details and prices to rebuild your engine -
Professional Rebuilding Service for Briggs & Stratton 16, 18 and 20hp opposed twin cylinder aluminum block engine (horizontal or vertical shaft) professional rebuild to OEM factory specifications @ 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn and garden use or mild competition pulling. Only high quality replacement parts are installed! All baffle shields (sheet metal) will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's. When shipping an engine, it must be securely fastened inside a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines. NOTE: If your engine doesn't smoke out the exhaust and burn oil, then chances are, all it needs is a professional valve job performed. We can do this instead of rebuilding your engine. The price is $300.00 for all parts and labor to perform the valve job, plus return shipping.
Professional Rebuilding Service for Briggs & Stratton Vanguard V-twin aluminum block engine (horizontal or vertical shaft) professional rebuild to OEM factory specifications @ 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn and garden use or mild competition pulling. Only high quality replacement parts are installed! All baffle shields (sheet metal) will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's. When shipping an engine, it must be securely fastened inside a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Professional Rebuilding Service for Kohler engine models K90/K91 cast iron block flathead engine professional rebuild to OEM factory specifications @ 4,000± governed RPM (for general lawn and garden use). Only high quality replacement parts are installed! All baffle shields (sheet metal) will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's. When shipping an engine, it must be securely fastened inside a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Professional Rebuilding Service for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8 cast iron block flathead engine professional rebuild to OEM factory specifications @ 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn and garden use or mild competition pulling. Only high quality replacement parts are installed! All baffle shields (sheet metal) will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's. When shipping an engine, it must be securely fastened inside a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Professional Rebuilding Services for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, M10, M12, M14 and M16 listed below. Only high quality replacement parts are installed! All baffle shields (sheet metal) will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's. When shipping an engine, it must be securely fastened inside a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Professional Rebuilding Service for Kohler K-series engine model K361 OHV professional rebuild to OEM factory specifications up to 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn and garden use or mild competition pulling. Only high quality replacement parts are installed! All baffle shields (sheet metal) will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's. When shipping an engine, it must be securely fastened inside a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
A-1 Miller's Professional Valve Repair Service for Kohler Engine Model K361 Cylinder Head. This service is for an engine that does not blow blue smoke out the exhaust and burn oil. Performing a professional valve job restores full compression, which allows the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly without stalling, and (if the ignition timing and carburetor adjustments are set correctly, too), it will produce full power at top governed speed. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs. And if you've ever wondered how the K361 rocker arms receive plenty of oil to keep them lubricated, when the engine is running at full governed speed, internal air pressure from the downward stroke of the piston forces crankcase oil through the pushrod tubes onto the rocker arms.
FYI - I found that the Kohler K361 18hp OHV cylinder head use the longer 1-3/4" (uncompressed length) valve springs with rotators, the same spring that certain K241, K301 and K321 use with a stamped retainer. And of course, certain K241, K301, K321, and all K341 use the shorter 1-9/16" spring with a rotator. The official Kohler parts manual says the K361 use the shorter 1-9/16" springs (with rotators), but apparently, it's wrong. It uses the longer 1-3/4" springs (with rotators). On all of the K361 engines that I've rebuilt, with the 1-3/4" springs and rotators installed, there is no coil bind. This is when the coils of the spring make contact with each other at full valve lift. I've had a customer send his K361 head to me for repairs, and when I spoke to him on the phone about his engine, he mentioned that the engine had always made a chattering/rattling sound at higher RPM and lacked sufficient power. He said he purchased the tractor used (with the same engine). So I checked the valve springs, and sure enough, it had the shorter ones (with rotators). Apparently, somebody (maybe the previous owner) worked on the cylinder head before, and for some reason, he installed the shorter valve springs. My customer was lucky it didn't drop a valve. That would've been a nightmare! But anyway, I installed a set of the longer 1-3/4" valve springs (with rotators). The valves felt stiffer when I pushed down on them with my hand, too. - Brian Miller Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] Professional Rebuilding Service for Kohler KT-series and Magnum opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Professional rebuild to OEM factory specifications @ up to 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn and garden use or mild competition pulling. Only high quality replacement parts are installed! All baffle shields (sheet metal) will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's. When shipping an engine, it must be securely fastened inside a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Professional Rebuilding Service for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 opposed twin cylinder (flathead) engines. Professional rebuild to OEM factory specifications @ up to 3,600 governed RPM for general lawn and garden use or mild competition pulling. Only high quality replacement parts are installed! All baffle shields (sheet metal) will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's. When shipping an engine, it must be securely fastened inside a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines. NOTE: If your engine doesn't smoke out the exhaust and burn oil, but looses power, then chances are all it needs is a professional tune-up and valve job performed. We can do this instead of rebuilding your engine. The price is $300.00 for all parts and labor to perform the valve job, plus return shipping.
Professional Rebuilding Service for Kohler Command and Command Pro V-Twin Engine Models CH18, CH20, CH22, CH23, CH25, CH620, CH621, CH640, CH641, CH670, CH680, CH730, CH740, CH750, CH940, CH960, CH980, CH1000, CV16, CV17, CV18, CV20, CV22, CV25, CV620, CV640, CV670, CV680, CV730, CV740 plus other models not listed. Only high quality replacement parts are installed! All baffle shields (sheet metal) will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's. When shipping an engine, it must be securely fastened inside a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Professional Rebuilding Service for Generac V-Twin Engine Models 005682-0, 0E3480, 0E4328, 389cc, 5625-0, GH-220, GH-410, GN-190, GN-220, GN-320, GN-360, GN-410, GT-760, GT-990, GTH-990, GTV-760 and GTV-990. Only high quality replacement parts are installed! All baffle shields (sheet metal) will need to be removed before bringing or shipping engine to A-1 Miller's. When shipping an engine, it must be securely fastened inside a sturdy wooden crate. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
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Competition Pulling Engine Freshening Service [Top of Page] This service is for Kohler pulling engines only that have been previously built, and needs the basic parts and labor to revive the power. It is not a complete engine rebuild. A typical pulling engine will last an average of 25 pulls or 3 years of use. After that, the piston rings become worn, and the engine may lose power when under load and puff gray/blue smoke out the exhaust and/or crankcase breather vent. When this happens, it's time for a freshening job. If interested, we will need an updated copy of your association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements so when the engine is freshened, it will be legal in its class, but still competitive. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines. Add $110.00 - $152.00 for installation of A-1 Miller's custom crank trigger or flywheel triggered electronic ignition system. (For competition pulling only.) A 50% deposit may be required on certain engine refresh jobs. Deposit is non-refundable if labor and machine work is invested in the engine, and parts are purchased for the engine. Remaining balance of total amount is due upon completion of engine refresh.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] Competition Pulling Engine Building [Top of Page] Garden tractor competition pulling engine technology has changed a lot through the years. We can rebuild your Kohler pulling engine with new technological parts so it'll produce more power, be more competitive on the track and last longer than anticipated. The engines listed below Ê are high output 10hp (K241), 12hp (K301), 14hp (K321) or 16hp (K341) Kohler engines, built and designed for competition pulling only, not general lawn and garden use. The "Built to the Max" Stock class engines runs at 4,000± governed RPM; have a 9-1/2" heavy steel ring gear flywheel; upper mount high torque gear starter (mounting bolts are underneath the starter motor); performance valve job with stock size valves; A-1 Miller's reground/torque cam; medium performance valve springs; #26 or #30 Kohler carburetor (depending on engine size) bored-out, reworked and set up for gas; enlarged ports and polished (intake port made larger only if it is smaller in diameter than the carburetor throttle bore); 2nd or 3rd generation cylinder head milled .050"; connecting rod bored .020" offset for piston pop out with bearing inserts installed. Also included are: flywheel shroud (not chrome plated), aluminum or cast iron oil pan, bolt-on header pipe and conventional Kohler point ignition system installed with ignition timing preset. A-1 Miller's competition pulling engines will be coated with high quality gloss black paint or International Harvester Cub Cadet yellow paint. When you receive your engine, install it in the tractor, add motor oil to the proper level, install the fuel hose, add fuel, connect the ignition and starter wires, connect the throttle cable controls, and the engine will be ready to start. Carburetor adjustments will be initially preset just so the engine will start and run, but due to the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, the final idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer after the engine is warmed up to operating temperature. Competition pulling engines will have no charging system. So use a high amperage 12 volt battery and a remote battery charger (with a gauge) to fully recharge the battery (preferably overnight) before each pulling event. And the only complaint we've received from our customer's concerning the pulling engines that we build for them is their tractor broke [factory stock] drivetrain and/or rear end parts. 4,000 RPM "Build to the Max" Stock-Appearing Competition Pulling Engines listed below - built for competition pulling only and to your pulling association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements. In addition to all the essentials, prices listed below include a heavy (ring gear) steel flywheel and new high torque gear starter motor (Kohler style). Custom crank trigger ignition or $100 to build a sturdy wooden shipping crate and shipping & handling is extra charge. Or you can visit A-1 Miller's shop to drop off and pick up your engine(s) to save on crating and shipping charges. Horsepower/torque and price depends on how the engine is built. (Past engines test ran on A-1 Miller's personal dynamometer with accurate results.) IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Open RPM (Wide Open Throttle) Hot Stock or Sport Stock Competition Pulling Engines listed below - built for competition pulling only and to your pulling association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements. The Hot Stock class engines has an OEM Kohler block; runs at wide open throttle (no governor); 9-1/2" 25 lb. steel flywheel; high torque upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are underneath the starter motor); A-1 Miller's Hot Stock/Stock-Altered welded-up and reground cast camshaft; single high performance valve springs; performance valve job with stock size valves; #26 or #30 Kohler carburetor (depending on engine size) bored-out, reworked, set up for gas with bottom main fuel adjuster; enlarged ports and polished (if the intake port is smaller in diameter than the carburetor throttle bore); 2nd or 3rd generation cylinder head milled .050"; connecting rod bored .020" offset for piston pop out with bearing inserts; rotating assembly (crankshaft and connecting rod/piston assembly) precision spin-balanced to reduce engine vibration. Also included are: flywheel shroud (not chrome plated), cast iron oil pan, bolt-on header pipe and conventional Kohler point ignition system installed with ignition timing preset. Upon receiving engine, install in tractor, add fluids and engine will be ready to start after all connections are made. Carburetor adjustments will be initially preset, but due to the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature, final adjustments may need to be made after engine is started. In addition to all the essentials, prices listed below include a (ring gear) steel flywheel and new high torque gear starter motor (Kohler style or gear reduction type). Custom crank trigger ignition or $100 to build a sturdy wooden shipping crate and shipping & handling is extra charge. Or you can visit A-1 Miller's shop to drop off and pick up your engine(s) to save on crating and shipping charges. Horsepower/torque and price depends on how the engine is built. (Past engines test ran on A-1 Miller's personal dynamometer with accurate results.) IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] |
Break-In (Wear-In) Oils and Procedure for Ordinary Rebuilt (Lawn and Garden) Engines - First of all, full synthetic/organic motor oil will allow an engine to run cooler and last longer. But the rule of thumb for different types of motor oils are: Full synthetic motor oil is mainly for high performance/racing engines that operate at high RPMs for a long time. Synthetic blend motor oil, which is a blend of about 50% organic and 50% petroleum, is for engines that occasionally operate at high RPMs, but also operate at normal speeds. And conventional/petroleum motor oil is safe to use just for engines that operate at normal speeds at all times. Break-In (Wear-In) Oils and Procedure for Fresh-Built Competition Pulling Engines - For proper break-in (wear-in) of a rebuilt or fresh built pulling engine, use a high quality conventional (petroleum-based) SAE 30 weight motor oil containing a high zinc content anti-wear additive, such as ZDDP (Zinc dithiophosphate), which places a protective coating between all internal moving parts, will get hot, create a wear pattern and produce a hardened surface, especially flat tappet lifters and camshaft lobes. Don't be afraid to run a fresh-built or freshly rebuilt pulling engine at speeds it is designed for. Just run the engine normally for 4-5 pulls. Do not allow the engine to idle at a slow speed (below 1,200 RPM) for a long period of time to break it in! It needs to run at full governed speed (3,200 or 3,600 RPMs) so the oil dipper on the connecting rod can splash the crankcase oil up and thoroughly lubricate/coat critical moving parts. And it's good to set the idle on the high side regardless of the type of oiling system (splash or oil pump) so the flywheel fins will blow more cool air over the engine. Then drain the oil while it's hot, and either continue to use ordinary SAE 30 oil, or switch to a quality 20W50 synthetic blend or full synthetic oil. Use no oil additives. Change the oil every 25 pulls or once a year. Synthetic-blend oils get about half as hot as conventional oils. But full synthetic oils don't get near as hot as conventional oils do. It's more slippery and remains cooler even after the engine have been in operation for several hours to better protect internal parts for longer engine life. If the tractor is geared correctly, the pulling engines I build should not run out of power at the end of the pull. It should spin the tires. But there's some things that needs to be checked after a few pulls as the engine breaks-in and parts wear into each other. For gas fuels, the ignition timing needs to be set at 22º BTDC. And make sure the high speed air/fuel mixture screw is set so the engine runs smooth at high RPM. Also, if a high-output/performance ignition coil is used, it requires two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one heavy duty, high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. This is so the coil will produce more voltage. And with a high-output/performance coil, the spark plug gap can be set at .060". With an ordinary coil, it should be set at .035". The valve to lifter clearances may need to be reset at .010" for the intake and .014" for the exhaust. Furthermore, when a new or rebuilt engine needs to "break-in", what the term "break-in" actually means is the moving internal parts that make contact with each other needs to "wear-in" with each other so they'll produce a wear pattern and last longer. Any new or rebuilt engine, rather if it's for general lawn and garden use or for competition pulling, needs to fully break-in (wear-in) for it to produce full power. Rings don't "seat," they break-in (wear-in), or wear-in with the cylinder wall, and they wear-in quickly. But the valves are the parts that needs to "seat." Being the valve faces and seats have different angles (30º/31º or 45º/46º, respectively), the valve faces needs to wear into the seats to seal in the compression 100%. Wear-in will produce a 30½º or 45½º angle on both the matching valve face and seat. The harder material the valves are made of, the longer it takes for them to "seat" or wear-into the seats. Some pullers tell A-1 Miller's that the engines I built for them run better every time they pull them. I remember a few years ago when I performed a valve job on my truck engine. It ran good and produced plenty of power, but I noticed after about 1,000 or so miles, it produced a little more power. I realized that this is because the valve faces wore into the seats, forming a perfect seal. So again, a fresh-built pulling engine will not produce full power the first few times it's ran. Go here for more information: Valvoline.com FAQs Motor Oil Car Racing Oil. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] |
NOTES:
- A general stock engine rebuild includes: completely disassemble entire engine, degrease, clean and inspect all parts, bore (if it needs it) or deglaze cylinder, install new piston/rings/pin/clips assembly, regrind crankshaft journal (if it needs it), install new undersize (.010") connecting rod or bore rod for undersize bearing inserts (.020" or .030"; if it needs it), regrind valves and seats, install new gaskets with silicone sealer to lesson oil leaks, install new ignition tune up components, resurface cylinder head (on large disc sander or wide, flat belt sander) to remove warpage and restore flatness, clean and rebuild carburetor, clean commutator and lubricate bushings in gear starter and whatever else the engine may need so it'll run well and last a long time.
- The engines I sell are turn key engines. I build all engines according to the customer's personal preferences for non-pulling purposes or to the customer's pulling association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements. "Build to the max" means engine will produce all the power possible and still remain stock-appearing externally. All of the above È will be performed in addition to the mild performance modifications.
- ± means more or less. This means if your engine needs minimal labor and/or machining, the price will be slightly less. But if it needs more than usual labor and/or machining, the price will be slightly higher. However, if it has sustained major internal damage or if it needs additional parts, extensive machine work and more labor, then the price will be even higher. And being I can't see your engine before you bring or send it to me, I can't honestly give an exact quote beforehand. But I'll treat you right and I'll try to keep the costs low as possible and still build you a quality engine so it'll start easy, produce full power and last a long time. The ± also depends on your personal preferences, parts needed and/or your pulling association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements. Also, if you would like to provide some or all of the parts yourself, the price will be substantially lower.
- All rebuilt engines returned (shipped) to the customer come with a 90 day workmanship warranty from date of pickup or delivery.
Ship the Engine Securely Fastened Inside a Sturdy Wooden Crate - [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
Before shipping or bringing your engine to A-1 Miller's in person, I don't need everything on it. Just the parts that can wear and need rebuilding or reconditioning, such as the carburetor, fuel pump, gear starter, cylinder head and crankcase breather assembly. I'll need the oil pan on it too, to prevent any dust and dirt from entering the crankcase after the rebuild. I'll need the flywheel on the engine so I can set the ignition timing. Please remove all baffle shields (sheet metal) and the PTO clutch assembly, too. By the way - I can rebuild the Cub Cadet mechanical PTO clutch, too. I have a heavy duty 2-jaw gear puller that we use with a large C-clamp to remove/pull off the mechanical PTO clutch/pulley assembly from engines out of an IH Cub Cadet garden tractor. But sometimes these clutch/pulleys will not remove without breaking. I do all I can to try to prevent this from happening, but when they do break, I have no choice but to install a rebuilt PTO clutch/pulley assembly. I also made a special puller tool to remove the stamped steel PTO pulley/basket from the crankshaft without damage. Regular shop hours are 9:00 am - 5:00 pm, Monday-Friday. And we're open on weekends by appointment only. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. If you are traveling a great distance, it's best to call in advance (573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly) to make sure that I will be here when you plan to stop by. Please ship or bring your engine when you're ready to the address below. Ê
If you bring your engine to A-1 Miller's in person, place it in a medium size automotive tire to keep it from moving around during transportation. But if you decide to ship your engine to A-1 Miller's, first off, do not use the USPS, UPS or FedEx Express! We and our customers have had too many problems with these shippers in the past. Their clumsy, incompetent and uncaring "gorilla" workers have a tendency to damage heavy items, and the shipping company's insurance never pay off. The shipping company claim that the damaged item, which was in their possession, is "not their fault." They are very careless with heavy packages when they handle them. The packages are placed on conveyor-belt systems and they seem to always drop the heavy ones off of the elevated conveyors, which usually destroys whatever is inside them. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
If shipping an engine, and if the crated engine weighs no more than 150 lbs., use only Fastenal or FedEx Ground for dependability. The average crated cast iron block Kohler engine weighs just under 150 lbs. Use this website to calculate the shipping cost for your engine: FedEx Rates and Transit Times. Contact your local Fastenal or FedEx Ground shipping center for more details and to schedule a pickup or drop off the crated engine at your local Fastenal or FedEx Ground shipping center. Fastenal and FedEx Ground are the only reasonably-priced shipping service that I know of for items up to 150 lbs. US Mail only ship up to 70 lbs. And FedEx Freight would cost almost as much as an engine is worth. If your engine is too heavy to go with FedEx Ground, partially disassemble it and send the lightweight parts in a USPS Large or Medium Flat Rate Box, and then send the main short block with FedEx Ground, the crated engine can be shipped through Fastenal. This also works better to save money on shipping costs. You can visit A-1 Miller's shop to drop off and pick up your engine(s) to save on crating and shipping charges.
Do not use a cardboard box alone the ship a heavy engine! Crate it well and any other parts with it securely so they won't get damaged or lost in shipping. A sturdy and well-constructed wooden crate can be ordered from: Crates, Wooden Crate in Stock - ULINE. But to construct your own sturdy wooden shipping crate, use 2x2's or 2x4's lumber for the frame work, with 1/4" plywood or 1/2" chipboard as outer covering (do not use cardboard for covering because another person's package could penetrate it and cause damage the engine inside), and a couple of 2x4's or a cut-down shipping pallet on the bottom so a forklift can move it without damage. Make the crate compact as possible so it'll take up less space, save on shipping charges and so it'll be easier to move around in our shop. Fasten the engine oil pan mounting bolt holes to two sturdy 2x4's on the base of the crate securely with 3/8" diameter bolts with wide flat washers. It's also very important to install 2x4 wood bracing all around the engine cylinder (front, rear and each side) stabilize it in the crate. And for easy engine removal, PLEASE use Phillips head drywall/sheetrock screws or better yet, use hex head 1/4" lag bolts w/flat washers to fasten everything on and in the crate. Be sure to include a note in a sealed plastic bag with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number, email address (in case I have any questions) and a detailed description of how you want the engine built and what it will be used for, and mention in the note any other parts you may need.
When the work is completed, I'll contact you with the total including return shipping & handling. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If the engine is for a specific purpose and parts must be special ordered, full payment will be required right after your order is placed or your debit/credit card will be charged for the full amount or as a deposit.) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. My PayPal account name is my email address, and be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê. And I will ship your rebuilt engine/parts to you as soon as I receive your payment.
To ship a transaxle, this is easier. They don't require an enclosed crate. Just place the transaxle on the center of a shipping pallet (of the appropriate size) and stretch wrap (use low-cost ratchet nylon tie-downs) to securely fasten it to the pallet. Use at least 6 layers of stretch wrap or several tie-downs. This should work really well. The shipping weight of a Cub Cadet cast iron case transaxle when strapped to a wooden pallet is approximately 215 lbs. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
Click Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available Soon )
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.) [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
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Does Anyone Still Make A Garden Tractor
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