Does Anyone Still Make A Garden Tractor
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A-1 Miller's Catalog of Small Engine Parts, Lawn & Garden Engines, Garden Tractor Competition Pulling Engines, Header Pipe Kits, Rebuild and Repair Services
Prices are subject to change without notice. FYI - All of the aftermarket parts that I offer in my websites are of very high quality and come with an unconditional guarantee. I would not be advertising this if it weren't true. Actually, they're just as good or better than most OEM Kohler parts. Scroll down the website or click the links below...
Governor Springs, Throttle and Choke Linkages and Bushings, Throttle Cable Clamps, Throttle Cable Assemblies and High Quality Universal Foot/Gas Pedal Kit | Internal Engine Rebuild Parts (Gaskets | Oil Seals | Pistons and Rings | Connecting Rods | Rod & Main Bearings | OEM Size and Oversize Valves | Valve Guides | OEM Kohler Cylinder Heads) | Valve Seat Cutter Kits, Stock Size Valves, Oversize Valves, Valve Springs | Performance Camshafts | Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs, Oil Filter Adapter Kit, Oil Filters and OEM Kohler Cast Aluminum and Cast Iron Oil Pans | Solid Motor Mounts for Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" Garden Tractors |
Engine Rebuilding and Custom Engine Build-up Services for General Lawn & Garden Equipment, Go-Karts, King Midget, Older Small All Terrain Vehicles, Older Snowmobiles, etc. | Competition Pulling Engine Freshening Service and Competition Pulling Engine Building (All engines are built 100% legal according to your updated pulling association/clubs' sanctioning rules and requirements.) | A-1 Miller's Professional Valve Repair Service for Kohler Engine Model K361 Cylinder Head | Exhaust Header Pipes, Flanges and Kits | Machine Shop Fabricating and Repair Services |
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price.
Governor Springs, Bushings, Links, Linkages, Throttle Cable Clamps, Throttle Cable Assemblies and Governor Gear Assemblies and Related Parts [Top of Page]
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New Style Nylon Throttle Link Retaining Bushings listed below. Each fits Kohler engine models M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, CH11, CH12.5, CH13, CH14, CH15, CH16, CH18, CH20, CH22, CH25, CH410, CH430, CH450, CH5, CH620, CH621, CH640, CH641, CH670, CH680, CH730, CH735, CH740, CH745, CH750, CH940, CH960, CH980, CH1000, CV11, CV12.5, CV13, CV14, CV15, CV16, CV18, CV20, CV22, CV25, CV430, CV450, CV460, CV493, CV620, CV640, CV670, CV680, CV730, CV740, CV745, CV750, CV940, CV960, CV980, CV1000, ECV740, ECV749, ECV850, ECV860, ECV870, ECV880, ECV940, ECV980, ELH775, KS530, KS540, KS590, KS595, KT600, KT610, KT620, KT715, KT725, KT730, KT735, KT740, KT745, LH630, LH640, LH685, LH690, LH750, LH755, LH775, LV680, PCV850, PCV860, SV470, SV471, SV480, SV530, SV540, SV541, SV590, SV591, SV601, SV620, SV710, SV715, SV720, SV725, SV730, SV735, SV740, SV810, SV820, SV830, SV840, TH16, TH18, TH575, ZT710, ZT720, ZT730 and ZT740 with a Carter/Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetor or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor with 3/16" hole in governor lever and throttle lever and without integrated ball on throttle lever.
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Speed Control Bracket/Lever with yoke, for use with a grooved end speed-adjustment screw (discontinued Kohler part # 237574-S). Sets engine RPM at desired/fixed position. Used on various Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K341 with the round-shaped air cleaner assembly connected to a generator/welder, water pump, etc. OEM Kohler part # 236413-S. $10.70 each, plus shipping & handling. |
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Governor Gear Stub Shafts. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K361 and all KT-series and Magnum opposed twin cylinder engines. Dimensions: 3/8" diameter x 7/8" length. Each is press-fit into block. NOTE: Drive in each stub shaft until .345" (11/32") protrudes from the block.
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Throttle and Choke Cable Assemblies, and High Quality Universal Foot/Gas Pedal Kit | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
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Choke Cable Control Assembly. Fits: 580, 582, 1604 and 1606. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # 746-3004. | |
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High Quality Heavy Duty Replacement Throttle Control Cable Assemblies for Universal Foot/Gas Throttle Pedal Assembly.
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Tachometers and Tachometer Kits | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
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Internal Engine Rebuild Parts for Kohler K-Series and Magnum Engines - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Crankshaft Oil Seals. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Each included with complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below. IMPORTANT - Before installing any new oil seal, always apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal and on shaft to keep seal lubricated and cool until crankcase oil can reach it. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will get hot from friction and burn away, causing an oil leak.
Crankshaft Oil Seals. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 and M16. Each included with complete engine rebuild gasket set set listed below. Shown with protective lubricating grease applied to inside seal. IMPORTANT - Before installing any new oil seal, always apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal and on shaft to keep seal lubricated and cool until crankcase oil can reach it. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will get hot from friction and burn away, causing an oil leak.
Crankshaft Oil Seals. Fits Kohler KT-series and Magnum Opposed Twin Cylinder Engines. Each included with complete engine rebuild gasket set listed below. Shown with protective lubricating grease applied to inside seal. IMPORTANT - Before installing any new oil seal, always apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease inside seal and on shaft to keep seal lubricated and cool until crankcase oil can reach it. With no prior lubrication, the dry rubber will get hot from friction and burn away, causing an oil leak.
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Oil Pan Gaskets.
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Complete Engine Rebuild Gasket Sets w/Oil Seals Listed Below [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]| [Top of Page] | |
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Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 with 1-11/16" bolt hole spacing. OEM Kohler part # 41 041 01-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling. Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. OEM Kohler part # 235122-S. $6.60 each, plus shipping & handling. Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine model K361. OEM Kohler part # 45 041 12-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Exhaust port gasket for K90/K91 (part # 220122-S) and K341 (part # 45 041 12-S) engines is discontinued from Kohler. | |
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[Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] |
New Ring Sets, and Piston and Ring Set - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
NOTE: I sell individual engine parts only. Because with "complete" engine rebuild kits that others offer, they always sell you extra parts your engine don't need, and/or leave out parts your engine do need. Completely disassemble your engine to determine which parts your engine needs and if the cylinder in your block and crank journal needs machine work performed, then email me a list of parts. Include the engine's model and specification numbers, too.
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NOTE: High-quality ring sets, pistons and piston/rings assemblies are also available for other makes and models of small gas engines. And the piston assemblies that's offered here will work with a stock connecting rod and crankshaft without the need for rebalancing. And always match a billet connecting rod of a certain length to an aftermarket piston (Arias, JE, etc.) that has the correct compression height. These two parts must be matched for the piston to come flush with the top of the engine block, or have a few thousands of an inch pop-out. If using a Kohler connecting rod, the compression height may not be correct with an aftermarket piston (Arias, JE, etc.) that has the wrong wrist pin offset. The same is true with a Kohler piston and a billet connecting rod of a the wrong length. You can find piston ring compressors on eBay. |
NOTE: Complete engine rebuild kits are available, but a kit will cost more than if the parts were purchased separately. So please contact A-1 Miller's with a list of parts you need, and I'll get back to you with a total amount including shipping & handling. And if you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website or for other make and model of engines. Please contact A-1 Miller's and I'll see if I can get it at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. |
New and Used OEM and Aftermarket Replacement Connecting Rods - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
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NOTE: If a crank journal is worn beyond specs or badly scored/burnt,it will need to be reground to the next undersize to match the appropriate size bearing inserts. And if you wish to have A-1 Miller's to bore a rod for you, please let me know if you want the bearing insert centered in the bore of the rod (5.300" rod length; piston flush with top of block), offset .020" (5.320" rod length; safe to use with a milled OEM Kohler stock head and stock head gasket) or offset .060" (5.360" rod length; use with a non-milled OEM Kohler head and stock head gasket) to pop the piston out of the cylinder (see below Ê) to raise the compression and help improve airflow within the combustion chamber for more power and torque. The bearing inserts I install in Kohler 10-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV K361 connecting rods can be used for general lawn and garden use, stock or high RPM competition pulling engines. The rod will need to be bored exactly 1.625" for correct bearing to journal oil clearance. NOTE: Being virtually all Kohler K241/M10 pistons come within .020"± from the top of the block, which lowers the compression ratio. (The factory made them this way for reasons unknown.) I prefer to bore the K241 10hp rods .020" offset so the piston will come flush with the top of the block. This will allow the engine to produce a little more power. It won't effect the longevity of the engine or cause any problems whatsoever. But sometimes with the .020" offset, the piston will pop out of the cylinder a few thousandths of an inch, which will still hurt nothing. And the bore can be offset .040" for a .020"± piston pop-out. FYI - Before I machine a rod for installation of bearing inserts, I use a metal "plug" alignment tool that I fabricated to precisely align the big hole of the connecting rod with the centerline of the spindle in my milling machine. Then while the plug is in the rod, I firmly clamp the rod to the milling machine table and after leaving the big hole centered or moving the table so many thousandths of an inch offset for piston pop-out, I lock the table so it won't move in any direction while boring the rod. But for reasons unknown, sometimes the cutting tool will bore the hole in the rod slightly off-center toward one of the bolts or studs. When this happens, I simply grind a small notch on the outside of each bearing shell so they'll clear the rod bolt. I've talked to other machinists who bore Kohler rods also about this and they tell A-1 Miller's sometimes the same thing happens to their rods. But as long as the outside of the bearing shells are notched for clearance of the bolt or stud, the off-center of the bearing inserts poses no problems whatsoever. And bearing inserts for the 10-16hp Kohler engines can be installed in Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 STD size connecting rods, but the crank journals would need to be reground exactly to 1.500" to match the inside diameter of the bearing inserts when installed in the rods. And for your information, STD size crank journals for the K482, K532 and K582 engines measures 1.6245". |
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More parts to be added later. |
Valve Seat Cutter Kits, OEM Size and Oversize Valves - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Basic Small Engine Valve Seat Cutter Kit. This Kit Includes:
| Deluxe Small Engine Valve Seat Cutter Kit. This Kit Contains:
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Exhaust Valve. Fits Kohler engine models KT90/KT91. OEM Kohler part # 220009-S. $45.05 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, resulting in leakage and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust at idle speed. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance.
Intake Valves. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8. Dimensions: head diameter: 1-3/8"; overall length: 4.065"; stem diameter: .309"; 45º face angle.
NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, resulting in leakage and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust at idle speed. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance.
1-3/8" Diameter Intake Valves. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16, K482, K532 and K582. Dimensions - Head diameter: 1-3/8"; Length: 4.640"; Stem diameter: .3095"; Face angle: 45º.
1-3/8" Diameter Exhaust Valves for later model K321's/M14 (suffix "D" and later), K341/M16, K532 and K582 (for K582 after serial # 9165450). Dimensions - Head diameter: 1.373; Length: 4.639; Stem diameter: .3075; Face Angle: 45º.
NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, resulting in leakage and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust at idle speed. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance. 8mm (.315") Chucking Reamer. Use to enlarge valve guides for installation of oversize or aftermarket valves with an 8mm valve stem in Kohler engine models K361, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20, or 1.720" oversize valve in 10-16hp Kohler engines. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, resulting in leakage and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust at idle speed. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance. Intake Valves. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 52 016 05-S (listed for M18, MV18), 52 017 01-S (listed for KT17), 52 017 02-S (listed for KT17), 52 017 03-S (listed for KT17), 52 017 05-S (listed for KT17), 52 017 07-S (listed for MV16, M18) and 52 017-08-S (listed for MV16, M18). Overall length: 3.641".
Exhaust Valves. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, MV16, M18 and MV18. Dimensions: head diameter: 1.373"; overall length: 3.641"; stem diameter: .3075".
Intake Valves. Fits Kohler engine models KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 52 016 02-S, 52 017 03 (listed for KT19), 52 017 07-S, 52 017 08-S. Overall length: 3.926".
Exhaust Valves. Fits Kohler engine models KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, M20 and MV20. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 52 016 02-S, 52 017 03, 52 017 07-S, 52 017 08-S. Overall length: 3.926".
NOTE: Before lapping in valves, it's best to have the valve seats recut or reground so they'll be in correct alignment with the centerline of the valve guides. Otherwise, the valves may not make a full 360º contact with the seats, resulting in leakage and the engine will lose compression, be hard to start, lose power and possibly make a popping sound through the carburetor or out the exhaust at idle speed. And be sure to set the clearances correctly, too. And if the end of the valve stem is accidentally ground too short, it can be made long again by building up welding with a MIG or TIG welder, then ground to the correct valve clearance. Oversize Valves for High RPM Kohler Pulling Engines. Each can be used as intake valve for Kohler 10-16hp competition pulling engines, or as exhaust valve (with a 20%± bigger intake valve). Each have a 45º face angle for a 46º seat, but can be reground to 30º to match a 31º seat. OEM Kohler valve keepers/locks/collets and retainers can be used with these valves.
è New valves for other makes and models of small engines are also available. | |
Valve Guides - FYI - Valve guides are made of either cast iron or bronze, and not steel. Cast iron and bronze are very hard and porous metals. They absorb oil and lubricate the valve stems for longer wear. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
NOTE: The alternative to installing new replacement OEM-type valve guides is to have the old [worn] guides reamed for installation of thin-wall bronze sleeves/liners (bushings), which can be installed by a reputable automotive machine shop. Bronze valve guide sleeves/liners are a low-cost alternative to replacing the entire guide in most engines. Bronze also last longer than cast iron guides because bronze is harder material and it retains more oil for better lubrication of the valve stem. | |
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OEM, Performance, High-Performance Camshafts, Valve Springs, Retainers, Rotators and Keepers
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Professionally Reground 4,000± RPM Performance Torque Cam for Kohler EnginesFYI - In order to gain the full benefit of a performance camshaft, just installing this type of cam will not greatly increase the power output of a Kohler engine. Along with the performance cam, the carburetor will need to be bored-out and reworked, the cylinder head will need to be milled .050" to raise the compression ratio, the valves/seats will need to be reworked, and installing an open/unrestricted exhaust header pipe will help, too. All of these things must work together so more air will enter the combustion chamber (and exit the chamber), which will build up more compression to allow the engine to produce more horsepower and torque.
FYI: When the cam lobes are reground, metal is removed from the base circle which reduce the diameter of the base circle in order retain maximum lift at the point on the lobe. The ramps on the lobes are also "rounded" to give the cam more duration. The cam grinding machine's grinding stones are about 1" wide, and after the cam grinding process, I have to manually grind metal away from the sides of the base circles so the edge of the lifters won't "ride up" on the ungrounded areas and hold the valves slightly open when they're supposed to be fully closed. I have to do this to every reground cam I have in stock. Some cam grinders apply a phosphate conversion coating (which resembles flat or matte black paint) to the entire camshaft, especially the lobes. This coating is to prevent galling (wear) during the break-in period and it also covers the secondary grinding areas on each side of the base circles of the lobes so they can't be readily easily seen or noticed. Motor oil with high zinc phosphate content will also protect the cam lobes and other internal moving engine parts from wear during break-in. Otherwise, if everything else is set up correctly with your engine, this cam should work fine. There's no need to be concerned when you receive the cam and see the metal ground away. Also, some of the cams I have, the points lobe is slightly worn. (It's hard to find a good used, 100% unworn cam nowadays.) I include a stainless steel points pushrod with a flared-end to make contact with the unworn areas of the lobe. The pushrod will need to be installed from inside the block before the cam is installed. IMPORTANT: To prevent seizing of camshaft on pin when engine is ran for the first time, apply plenty of motor oil on cam pin and inside cam before installing cam in engine. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. Differences in Camshafts for Kohler Pulling Engines -
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High Performance Camshaft for Hot-Stock and Stock-Altered Kohler Competition Pulling Engines
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FYI: The OEM valve springs in various models of Kohler cast iron block engines are not the same. They are not like the OEM springs that's used in a stock small block Chevy V8's, which are the same. For some reason, Kohler installed a specific valve spring in a certain model engine to match the cam profile (lobe lift and duration) so the engine will perform best. And used valve springs rarely lose adequate pressure. They can be reused as long as they're not rusted or have been overheated. The rust-pitted areas is a weak spot and when in operation and under pressure, the spring could break.
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Valve Lifter/Tappet. Fits later Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. For use with intake or exhaust valve and one-piece camshaft with automatic compression release (ACR). Replace worn lifter to prevent erratic valve action and/or premature cam lobe wear. Non-adjustable. Grind end of valve stems with piston positioned at TDC on compression stroke to set valve clearances. Dimensions: 2.020" overall length x 1.115" base diameter x .308" stem diameter. Discontinued Kohler part # 232777-S.
1.280" Wide Base Adjustable Valve Lifters (Tappets). Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K231/M14 and K341/M16. For competition pulling engines only using high-performance cams with .400"-.575" lift. Set valve clearances with piston positioned at TDC on compression stroke. May need to reuse 7/16" adjusters from OEM Kohler lifters with these wide base lifters. (These are NOT Jeep lifters! Jeep lifters will not fit Kohler engines.)
Valve Lifter/Tappet. Fits Kohler engine models MV16, M18, MV18 (except w/spec #'s 58560, 58561), M20 and MV20 (except w/specification #'s 57527, 57528). Used with serial number 1917809286 and after. 2.885" overall length. OEM Kohler part # 52 019 03-S.
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Crankcase Breather Plate and Reed Valve Assembly. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8. Replace damaged or rusted breather plate/reed valve assembly to prevent loss of oil through breather vent hole, prevent outside dust and dirt from being drawn into crankcase and maintain crankcase vacuum and proper ventilation so engine will produce more power and last longer.
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Cylinder Head Welding Repairs, New and Reconditioned OEM Kohler Cylinder Heads - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
A-1 Miller's Professional Valve Repair Service for Kohler Engine Model K361 Cylinder Head. [Top of Page] This service is for an engine that does not blow blue smoke out the exhaust and burn oil. Performing a professional valve job restores full compression, which allows the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly without stalling, and (if the ignition timing and carburetor adjustments are set correctly, too), it will produce full power at top governed speed. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs. And if you've ever wondered how the K361 rocker arms receive plenty of oil to keep them lubricated, when the engine is running at full governed speed, internal air pressure from the downward stroke of the piston forces crankcase oil through the pushrod tubes onto the rocker arms.
FYI - I have found that the Kohler K361 18hp OHV cylinder head use the longer 1-3/4" valve spring (uncompressed length; discontinued Kohler part # 235010-S) with rotators for both valves, the same spring that certain early K241, K301 and K321 engines use with the stamped retainer. And of course, certain later K241, K301, K321, and all K341 engines have the shorter 1-9/16" spring (uncompressed length; discontinued Kohler part # 235168-S) with the rotator. Anyway, the official Kohler parts manual says that the K361 use the shorter 1-9/16" springs (with rotators) for both valves, but apparently, it's wrong! It obviously requires the longer 1-3/4" springs (with rotators). And of all the K361 engines that I've rebuilt through the years, with the 1-3/4" springs and rotators installed, there is no coil bind. Coil bind is when the coils of the spring make contact with each other at maximum valve lift. I've had a customer send his K361 head to me for repairs, and when I spoke to him on the phone about his engine, he mentioned that the engine had always made a chattering/rattling sound at full governed speed and lacked sufficient power. So I checked the valve springs, and sure enough, it had the shorter 1-9/16" springs (with rotators). My customer was lucky it didn't drop a valve. That would've been a nightmare! So I installed a set of the longer 1-3/4" springs (with rotators). The valves felt stiffer when I pushed down on them with my hand, too. - Brian Miller |
NOTE - If it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for. |
NOTE: To lessen the chance of a blown or leaking head gasket, clean out the head bolt hole threads with a tap, and seal the head gasket with Copper RTV Silicone Sealant (VersaChem - Mega Copper Silicone, Permatex® Ultra Copper® Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker or Copper SPRAY-A-GASKET Hi Temp Adhesive Sealant) on each side of the head gasket or cylinder head and engine block to prevent a blown or leaking head gasket. Because engine heat has very little effect on silicone rubber. It's made of fine-ground up heat-transferring compressible copper mixed with silicone. Walmart and most auto parts stores sell copper RTV silicone sealant. It doesn't matter which brand to use, they work the same. |
A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Professionally weld up burned-out gasket surface in small engine cylinder head, resurface on a wide sanding belt to remove warpage and restore flatness, and redrill bolt hole, if needed. The welding process involves grinding away the impurities in the aluminum, and the aluminum welding becomes integrated with or part of the aluminum in the head, resulting in superior bonding with no separation whatsoever. NOTE - As long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded up, resurfaced, and the bolt hole redrilled. IMPORTANT - The two causes of a burn-out are: 1) Throttle shaft in the carburetor is severely worn, allowing extra air in the combustion chamber, which will lean out the air/fuel mixture at high RPMs; 2) The adjustable high speed main air/fuel mixture screw is set too lean; 3) The engine is ran above 3,200 RPM with a [Walbro] carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable high speed main jet. To prevent the burn-out from happening again, either of these things should be fixed correctly before the cylinder head (engine) is put back into service. $75.00 for welding and machining, plus return shipping & handling. If it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for. A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Drill out rusted-in/broken off [1/4"] bolt in cylinder head and retap threads for fastening of baffle shields (sheet metal) and/or brackets. No need to purchase another hard-to-find cylinder head that's in good condition. Also includes resurface head on a wide belt sander to remove warpage and restore flatness. NOTE: Always apply anti-seize compound on threads of bolt before installing. $10.00 each labor, plus return shipping & handling. IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt and spark plug torque specs. Also, if it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for. Mill out exhaust valve cavity in LP and 2nd generation cylinder head to clear the larger 1-3/8" exhaust valve. $25.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
Kohler engine model K341
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High Quality Aftermarket Single Cylinder Head Stud Kits. These studs can be reused multiple times. They will not stretch overtime and are not "torque to yield." Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14, K341/M16 and K361 with an OEM or Billet Head. Each kit includes 3/8" diameter x 2" or 2-3/4" length high quality heat-treated studs, grade 8 nuts and hardened flat washers. I can also make the head studs any length you want. The ones that's listed here are the most common lengths. When installed correctly and torqued to specs, head studs provide even torque pressure for better head gasket sealing. Plus, with a thinner cylinder wall with a huge, oversized piston, they help maintain cylinder wall stability and straightness for better ring seal to lessen the loss of compression. Thoroughly tested for several years of continuous use under pulling conditions, for Kohler engine models, hardened and heat-treated coarse thread studs, along with grade 8 nuts and washers, works just fine, with no problems. The nuts maintain their torque as long as they're tightened to the correct torque specs. And make sure at least 3/4" of threads are in the block so the cylinder wall will not distort and threads in block will not strip out when the nuts are torqued to specs. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs. (Cast iron is weaker than hardened steel.) Also, the flat washers goes under the nuts to distribute even pressure across head. IMPORTANT: As with any threaded stud, apply medium strength liquid threadlocker (Blue Loctite, Permatex or equivalent) on threads that goes in the block to prevent stud from loosening. FYI - When storing an opened container of liquid threadlocker or Super Glue, store it upright and not laying flat. The [capped] tip will not dry out and clog when stored upright. Thread stud 3/4" into the block. Use a hardened flat washer under nut to distribute load across head and apply motor oil on exposed threads so nut will torque correctly. Torque each nut to 360 in. lbs. or 30 ft. lbs. in correct sequence. Also, stud length is determined by type of cylinder head. The OEM head with short bolt holes require 2" length studs, the head with tall bolt holes require 2-3/4" length studs. Please indicate length of studs when placing order. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please accept no advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
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Cooling Fan, Reconditioned OEM Kohler Flywheels, Crankshafts and Main Bearings - | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
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Precision Dynamic Spin-Balancing Service -
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A-1 Miller's Crankshaft Machine Repair Service - (Added 2/3/21)
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Cub Cadet hub adapters with 3/8" center hole (later K-series, all KT-series and Magnum), w/o pulley, w/dowel pin.
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Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs, Oil Filter Adapter, Oil Filters and OEM Kohler Cast Aluminum and Cast Iron Oil Pans - Please contact me if you're interested in any of these parts or services. | [Top of Page]
Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs with Tapered Threads and Square Head listed below. A-1 Miller's oil drain plugs have a super strong rare earth/neodymium magnet. Five times stronger than competitor's ceramic (ferrite) magnet and resists demagnetization. Plugs listed below can be used on various other makes and models of transmissions, transaxles, gearboxes and small engines. Tapered threads requires no sealing gasket or sealant, and threads will not strip out when tightened. To avoid cracking oil pan, do not over-tighten! When in doubt, use plumber's thread sealing tape to insure proper sealing of threads to prevent a possible oil leak. Universal application. Magnet attracts and removes ferrous metallic wear fragments from the motor oil or transmission/gearbox to reduce engine or gear/bearing wear. Sometimes some of the ferrous wear fragments settle to the bottom of the oil pan and do not drain out with the oil when performing an oil change, even when the oil is hot. The engine will last much longer due to cleaner oil. Magnetic drain plugs are suitable for engines with splash oil lubrication (no oil pump/filter). Remember - Metal flake looks good in paint, not in oil. 3/8" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs. (0.675" O.D. tapered threads.) OEM Kohler part # X-305-4-S. $18.35 each, plus shipping & handling. 1/2" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (0.840" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits side of oil pan on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8 engines, and oil drain on Cub Cadet garden tractor transaxles and various automotive manual shift transmissions. A-1 Miller's part. Not available from Kohler. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. 3/4" NPT Magnetic Oil Drain Plug. (1.050" O.D. tapered threads.) Fits various Briggs & Stratton and Kohler engines. A-1 Miller's part. Not available from Kohler. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
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Repair Service: Repair stripped aluminum oil pan mounting bolt hole threads. No need to purchase another oil pan! $5.00 each for all parts and labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
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Exhaust Gaskets, Complete Header Pipe Kits and Adapters - Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 with 1-11/16" bolt hole spacing. OEM Kohler part # 41 041 01-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling. Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241/M10, K301/M12 and K321/M14. OEM Kohler part # 235122-S. $6.60 each, plus shipping & handling. Exhaust Port Gasket. Fits Kohler engine model K361. OEM Kohler part # 45 041 12-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Exhaust port gasket for the K90/K91 (part # 220122-S) and K341 (part # 45 041 12-S) engines are discontinued from Kohler. | |
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A-1 Miller's Machine Shop Service - A-1 Miller's Machine Shop Service - Remove or drill out broken exhaust bolt(s) and recut 5/16-18 UNC threads for installation of new bolts or studs in exhaust flange on engine block to install custom bolt-on exhaust system or header pipe (listed below). Service is for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181/M8, K241/M10, K301/M12, K321/M14 or K341/M16. NOTE: If broken bolt(s) needs to be drilled out, for accuracy and precision of holes to be drilled, crankshaft and bearing plate must be removed from engine to fasten block in fabricated fixture on the table of milling machine. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service for a Kohler engine block. $15.00 - $60.00 labor (depending on difficulty of work involved), plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. A-1 Miller's Machine Shop Service - Resurface exhaust flange on engine block to ensure 100% sealing of header mounting flange to prevent from loosening due to a heavily rusted, uneven, rough surface. NOTE: For accuracy, crankshaft and bearing plate must be removed from engine to fasten block in fabricated fixture on the table of milling machine. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service for a Kohler engine block. $30.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. | |
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Machine Shop Services. (Prices listed below Ê are with the engine out of the tractor and on my work table.) [Top of Page]
Engine Block -
Convert 10-16hp Kohler wide base block to narrow base, for use in a garden tractor requiring a narrow base engine block. (Cub Cadet, Ford, John Deere, Wheel Horse, etc.) See pictures shown below Ê An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of service for a Kohler engine block.
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Regrind seat in your single cylinder block or OHV head to OEM angle or 30º angle: $5.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. A-1 Miller's Professional Valve Job - Remove both valves, regrind valve faces and seats to factory specs, lap in valves, reset valve clearances, and reinstall valves on a single cylinder Kohler engine. $50.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Perform performance valve job on two stock valves and seats in single cylinder OEM [Kohler] block for improved airflow: $40.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price includes regrinding the exhaust valve and seat at 45º/46º angles, intake valve and seat at 30º/31º angles respectively and undercutting both valve heads. Install stock size valves in single cylinder Kohler-replicated aftermarket block with small uncut valve pockets: $150.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price does not include any parts. Install oversize valves in single cylinder Kohler-replicated aftermarket block with small uncut valve pockets: $200.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price does not include any parts. Enlarge and Polish Intake and Exhaust Port Runners -
Install 1-3/8" exhaust valve in 10, 12 and older 14hp OEM Kohler block: $50.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Install oversize valves, and enlarge/polish intake and exhaust runners in single cylinder (OEM [Kohler] block): $175.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Install oversize valves, and enlarge/polish intake and exhaust runners in single cylinder (Kohler-replicated aftermarket block): $300.00 labor, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Install thin-wall bronze sleeves/liners in worn OEM valve guides in single cylinder Kohler and other makes of engines. $12.00 each, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Bronze valve guide sleeves/liners are an alternative to replacing the entire guide in Kohler engines. Bronze also last longer than Kohler's cast iron guides because bronze retains more oil for better lubrication of the valve stem. Install OEM-type [centered] cast iron valve guide or offset valve guide in single cylinder OEM Kohler block and ream for clearance of valve stem: $15.00 each labor only, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price does not include guide. Install bronze offset valve guide in single cylinder OEM Kohler block and ream for clearance of valve stem: $15.00 each labor only, plus return shipping with Fastenal or FedEx Ground. Price does not include guide. Oversize valve MUST be used with an offset guide. |
''Round Up'' Crankshaft Rod Journal(s) and Resize Connecting Rod(s) - This service is for most makes and models of small engines when an undersize connecting rod or bearing inserts isn't available, if the crankshaft is worn beyond .010" and needs to be reground again, the journal can be reground to wherever it "cleans up" or is true again, then the connecting rod can be resized so it'll fit the smaller undersize journal with the factory recommended .0025" oil clearance. To resize the rod so it'll fit to a few thousands of an inch smaller diameter crank journal, first, metal is removed from the mating end of the rod cap, then the cap is fasten to the rod. The big hole in the rod is now oblong or "egg shaped." Then the big hole in the rod is honed until it's .002" larger than the diameter of the crank journal. Honing reshapes the hole into a perfect circle again, only smaller in diameter. This works very well and it lasts as long as an ordinary STD size rod and crank journal. This can only be performed on a rod with a good bearing surface. It cannot be done on a burnt or heavily scored connecting rod because too much metal would need to be removed. If you're interested, I will need your crankshaft and connecting rod(s). NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to make less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. NOTE: Once installed and in operation, there is no warranty or guarantee of any kind on crankshaft regrinds. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this service.
Crankshaft Regrinding -This service includes Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh, etc.
Repair damaged or broken off threaded stud on flywheel end of crankshaft with installation of 3/8" or 7/16" grade 8 UNF bolt. $50.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. Repair damaged or broken off threaded stud on flywheel end of crankshaft with installation of hardened 7/16" or 5/8" UNF stud. Resembles original stud on end of crankshaft.$75.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. Center drill and cut threads in PTO end of crankshaft for installation of 3/8" UNF grade 8 bolt. $50.00 each, plus return shipping & handling. |
Replace Rubber ISO-Mounts With a Set of Solid Motor Mounts in a Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" Garden Tractor to Prevent Repeated and Costly Damage to the Clutch Components! An original, ingenious, innovative concept invention by Brian Miller, because I was the one who originally thought of, promoted and advertised the use of this product. Please accept no copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) Details include:
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Engine Rebuilding and Custom Engine Build-up Services for General Lawn & Garden Equipment, Go-Karts, King Midget, Older Small All Terrain Vehicles, Older Snowmobiles, etc. | Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Small engine technology has changed a lot since the Kohler K-series and Magnum engines were made. I can rebuild your lawn and garden engine (or competition pulling engine) with new technological parts so it'll produce more power and last longer than the factory anticipated. I also build engines from scratch and rebuild customer's complete engines from factory stock, to 4,000± RPM governed, to wide open throttle Hot-Stock and Stock-Altered competition pulling engines. I can build a quality, competition engine for you, or rebuild your engine however you want. Just tell A-1 Miller's know how you're going to use your tractor or equipment and I'll build your engine to suit your needs. And if it's required in your association/club sanctioning engine rules or not, ALWAYS install a safety shield made of adequate thickness and material for each side of the engine fastened to the tractor frame securely in case of connecting rod failure (Murphy's Law), so an innocent bystander or spectator won't be injured or killed from high-speed projected metal shrapnel.
I don't have any rebuilt Kohler short blocks or engines in stock. And if I did, chances are, they probably wouldn't be designed for your garden tractor or equipment. Because Kohler engines are made specifically to fit a certain model of garden tractor or equipment. They are not a "universal fit" or "one fits all". Therefore, it'll be best to have your engines rebuilt instead. Then all the brackets, accessories and electrical wiring will reconnect to your garden tractor or equipment with no modifications.
Also, I set the air/fuel adjusters on all carburetors just so the engine will start and run, but because of the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, the customer will need to make the final bore.) OEM so the engine will run smooth. No carburetor with an adjustable high speed main fuel adjuster comes preset, not even new ones.
Furthermore, just to let you know, although I use the best parts, use caution on choosing the right motor oil to use in your engine. Because the government (tree huggers/Sierra club) is requiring oil companies to lessen the amount of zinc in their motor oils to reduce pollution. Zinc provides a protective coating on internal engine parts and prevents metal to metal contact for proper break-in and it helps the parts last longer. Many auto manufacturers and professional engine rebuilders are upset because of this too, because they have to guarantee their engines for a certain period of time, and many of them take pride in building their engines.
Regarding an Engine Build Estimate -
I am very meticulous in how I rebuild and build engines. If you would like to have A-1 Miller's build, rebuild or build-up your engine, I will need a detailed list of exactly what you want done to your engine or a copy of your association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements regarding the engine requirements before I can give you an estimate on the cost. And if you (the customer), change your mind of how you want the engine built or rebuilt in the middle of a build, I will need to know ahead of time and I will need the changes in writing so I can make the necessary changes to the engine. Otherwise, this will effect how well the engine performs on the track, and it would make me, as a professional engine builder, look bad. It's not a good thing to be afraid that something bad may happen to an engine. Having confidence in an engine makes ya feel good, but having confidence in your engine builder makes ya feel better.
A-1 Miller's competition pulling engines will be coated with high quality gloss black paint (most common factory color), International Cub Cadet yellow paint, or the color of your choice. When you receive your engine, install the baffle shields (sheet metal), brackets and everything else on the engine, install the engine in the tractor, add motor oil to the proper level, install the fuel hose, add fuel, connect the ignition and starter wires, connect the throttle/choke cable controls, and the engine will be ready to start. Carburetor adjustments will be initially preset just so the engine will start and run, but due to the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, the final idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer after the engine is started and warmed up to operating temperature.
Whenever I rebuild or build-up an engine, and if you would like to do so, I do whatever it takes so it'll produce the factory-rated horsepower or the maximum horsepower and torque, and last a long time. I go beyond what the repair manual says to do. I can get all the parts needed, too. I can build your engine so it'll be legal for the class you plan to pull in. And with my engine rebuilds and build-ups, you may not always win, but you'll look good trying! By the way - the surface of the exhaust area of a fresh-built engine may burn off the oil residue for a short time once it gets hot, but it'll stop after a while. It's nothing to worry about. This happens with most rebuilt engines, especially an engine with fresh paint.
I do not build illegal competition pulling engines that do not conform to your association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements! But there are certain other engine builders that offer new pulling engines for sale. BUT, being different pulling associations/clubs have different engine rules and requirements, there is no "one pulling engine that conforms to each and every clubs' rules and requirements." Therefore, you may receive an engine that do not conform to your association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements, and it may be built "above the rules". Meaning it's not legal within your association/club sanctioning rules and requirements and is illegal to run in the class you plan to pull it in (cheater engine). Or, the engine in question may be built "below the rules" so it's less competitive as an engine that is built to the max legally according to the rules and requirements. But I'll build your engine or an engine for you so it'll produce the maximum horsepower and torque in accordance with your association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements, not less than what the rules and requirements allow. I also rebuild ordinary/stock lawn and garden equipment engines too, such as cast iron and cast aluminum block single- and twin-cylinder flathead, OHV and V-twin Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, Tecumseh and 2-cycle LawnBoy. I've never encountered an engine that I couldn't repair, rebuild or build-up/modify with more horsepower and torque!
FYI - Being I'm the only person to read and respond to all my customer's emails (about 20 or so per day), take my customer's phone call orders (about 20-30 on a nice day with good weather), with customers stopping by my shop, repair and rebuild my customer's parts and engines in my shop, locate hard-to-find engine parts, order parts from my suppliers, process orders, package parts then mail customer's parts at my local Post Office, etc., it may take A-1 Miller's several months to rebuild an engine. It also takes time to perform precision machine work and manual workmanship on an engine rebuild, especially for a competition pulling engine, and I wouldn't want to do a rush job. I also have to depend on other local machine shops to perform various machine work and balance rotating engine parts. All this takes time. I tried hiring different people to help me in my shop, but it seems a lot of people don't fully understand about most of the parts and services that I offer. I never fired anyone. They all quit on me. So please keep this in mind if you decide to have A-1 Miller's rebuild/build up your engine. Also, I don't like to rush on my customer's repair jobs. I'm very particular about my work, especially my engine builds. I like to take my time to make sure that everything is right, the engine will run right, produce full power and last a long time. I appreciate for you understanding my situation. - Brian Miller
FYI - Used OEM parts in good condition for older Kohler engines are hard to find now, especially the small parts. If the parts don't wear, they tend to get thrown away and then "engine scrappers" sell the parts that do wear on places like eBay. They don't think about people like me, who make a living by "piecing together" or building engines from scratch for a customer. I can purchase new parts from Kohler if they're still available, but that would be cost-prohibitive. I try to keep my engine builds at reasonable prices. - Brian Miller
All of A-1 Miller's customer's competition pulling engine builds are strictly confidential! This means the people you pull against will not know what goes into your engine.
Below Ê are details and prices to rebuild your engine -
A-1 Miller's Professional Valve Repair Service for Kohler Engine Model K361 Cylinder Head. This service is for an engine that does not blow blue smoke out the exhaust and burn oil. Performing a professional valve job restores full compression, which allows the engine to start quicker, idle smoothly without stalling, and (if the ignition timing and carburetor adjustments are set correctly, too), it will produce full power at top governed speed. Click or tap here for cylinder head bolt torque specs. And if you've ever wondered how the K361 rocker arms receive plenty of oil to keep them lubricated, when the engine is running at full governed speed, internal air pressure from the downward stroke of the piston forces crankcase oil through the pushrod tubes onto the rocker arms.
FYI - I found that the Kohler K361 18hp OHV cylinder head use the longer 1-3/4" (uncompressed length) valve springs with rotators, the same spring that certain K241, K301 and K321 use with a stamped retainer. And of course, certain K241, K301, K321, and all K341 use the shorter 1-9/16" spring with a rotator. The official Kohler parts manual says the K361 use the shorter 1-9/16" springs (with rotators), but apparently, it's wrong. It uses the longer 1-3/4" springs (with rotators). On all of the K361 engines that I've rebuilt, with the 1-3/4" springs and rotators installed, there is no coil bind. This is when the coils of the spring make contact with each other at full valve lift. I've had a customer send his K361 head to me for repairs, and when I spoke to him on the phone about his engine, he mentioned that the engine had always made a chattering/rattling sound at higher RPM and lacked sufficient power. He said he purchased the tractor used (with the same engine). So I checked the valve springs, and sure enough, it had the shorter ones (with rotators). Apparently, somebody (maybe the previous owner) worked on the cylinder head before, and for some reason, he installed the shorter valve springs. My customer was lucky it didn't drop a valve. That would've been a nightmare! But anyway, I installed a set of the longer 1-3/4" valve springs (with rotators). The valves felt stiffer when I pushed down on them with my hand, too. - Brian Miller Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page]
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Competition Pulling Engine Freshening Service [Top of Page] This service is for Kohler pulling engines only that have been previously built, and needs the basic parts and labor to revive the power. It is not a complete engine rebuild. A typical pulling engine will last an average of 25 pulls or 3 years of use. After that, the piston rings become worn, and the engine may lose power when under load and puff gray/blue smoke out the exhaust and/or crankcase breather vent. When this happens, it's time for a freshening job. If interested, we will need an updated copy of your association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements so when the engine is freshened, it will be legal in its class, but still competitive. Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines. Add $110.00 - $152.00 for installation of A-1 Miller's custom crank trigger or flywheel triggered electronic ignition system. (For competition pulling only.) A 50% deposit may be required on certain engine refresh jobs. Deposit is non-refundable if labor and machine work is invested in the engine, and parts are purchased for the engine. Remaining balance of total amount is due upon completion of engine refresh.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] Competition Pulling Engine Building [Top of Page] The "Built to the Max" Stock class engines runs at 4,000± governed RPM; have a 9-1/2" heavy steel ring gear flywheel; upper mount high torque gear starter (mounting bolts are underneath the starter motor); performance valve job with stock size valves; A-1 Miller's reground/torque cam; medium performance valve springs; #26 or #30 Kohler carburetor (depending on engine size) bored-out, reworked and set up for gas; enlarged ports and polished (intake port made larger only if it is smaller in diameter than the carburetor throttle bore); 2nd or 3rd generation cylinder head milled .050"; connecting rod bored .020" offset for piston pop out with bearing inserts installed. Also included are: flywheel shroud (not chrome plated), aluminum or cast iron oil pan, bolt-on header pipe and conventional Kohler point ignition system installed with ignition timing preset. A-1 Miller's competition pulling engines will be coated with high quality gloss black paint or International Harvester Cub Cadet yellow paint. When you receive your engine, install it in the tractor, add motor oil to the proper level, install the fuel hose, add fuel, connect the ignition and starter wires, connect the throttle cable controls, and the engine will be ready to start. Carburetor adjustments will be initially preset just so the engine will start and run, but due to the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, the final idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer after the engine is warmed up to operating temperature. Competition pulling engines will have no charging system. So use a high amperage 12 volt battery and a remote battery charger (with a gauge) to fully recharge the battery (preferably overnight) before each pulling event. And the only complaint we've received from our customer's concerning the pulling engines that we build for them is their tractor broke [factory stock] drivetrain and/or rear end parts. 4,000 RPM "Build to the Max" Stock-Appearing Competition Pulling Engines listed below - built for competition pulling only and to your pulling association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements. In addition to all the essentials, prices listed below include a heavy (ring gear) steel flywheel and new high torque gear starter motor (Kohler style). Custom crank trigger ignition or $100 to build a sturdy wooden shipping crate and shipping & handling is extra charge. Or you can visit A-1 Miller's shop to drop off and pick up your engine(s) to save on crating and shipping charges. Horsepower/torque and price depends on how the engine is built. (Past engines test ran on A-1 Miller's personal dynamometer with accurate results.) IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] Open RPM (Wide Open Throttle) Hot Stock or Sport Stock Competition Pulling Engines listed below - built for competition pulling only and to your pulling association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements. The Hot Stock class engines has an OEM Kohler block; runs at wide open throttle (no governor); 9-1/2" 25 lb. steel flywheel; high torque upper mount gear starter (mounting bolts are underneath the starter motor); A-1 Miller's Hot Stock/Stock-Altered welded-up and reground cast camshaft; single high performance valve springs; performance valve job with stock size valves; #26 or #30 Kohler carburetor (depending on engine size) bored-out, reworked, set up for gas with bottom main fuel adjuster; enlarged ports and polished (if the intake port is smaller in diameter than the carburetor throttle bore); 2nd or 3rd generation cylinder head milled .050"; connecting rod bored .020" offset for piston pop out with bearing inserts; rotating assembly (crankshaft and connecting rod/piston assembly) precision spin-balanced to reduce engine vibration. Also included are: flywheel shroud (not chrome plated), cast iron oil pan, bolt-on header pipe and conventional Kohler point ignition system installed with ignition timing preset. Upon receiving engine, install in tractor, add fluids and engine will be ready to start after all connections are made. Carburetor adjustments will be initially preset, but due to the altitude level, barometric pressure and air temperature, final adjustments may need to be made after engine is started. In addition to all the essentials, prices listed below include a (ring gear) steel flywheel and new high torque gear starter motor (Kohler style or gear reduction type). Custom crank trigger ignition or $100 to build a sturdy wooden shipping crate and shipping & handling is extra charge. Or you can visit A-1 Miller's shop to drop off and pick up your engine(s) to save on crating and shipping charges. Horsepower/torque and price depends on how the engine is built. (Past engines test ran on A-1 Miller's personal dynamometer with accurate results.) IMPORTANT: Click or tap here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines.
Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in purchasing any of the products or services listed in this website. If you need a part or parts that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's and we'll see if we can get it at a reasonable price. | [Top of Page] |
First of all, full synthetic/organic motor oil will allow an engine to run cooler and last longer. But the rule of thumb for different types of motor oils are: Full synthetic motor oil is mainly for high performance/racing engines that operate at high RPMs for a long time. Synthetic blend motor oil, which is a blend of about 50% organic and 50% petroleum, is for engines that occasionally operate at high RPMs, but also operate at normal speeds. And conventional/petroleum motor oil is safe to use just for engines that operate at normal speeds at all times. If the tractor is geared correctly, the pulling engines I build should not run out of power at the end of the pull. It should spin the tires. But there's some things that needs to be checked after a few pulls as the engine breaks-in and parts wear into each other. For gas fuels, the ignition timing needs to be set at 22º BTDC. And make sure the high speed air/fuel mixture screw is set so the engine runs smooth at high RPM. Also, if a high-output/performance ignition coil is used, it requires two standard capacity (Kohler) condensers/capacitors or one heavy duty, high capacity/performance condenser/capacitor. This is so the coil will produce more voltage. And with a high-output/performance coil, the spark plug gap can be set at .060". With an ordinary coil, it should be set at .035". The valve to lifter clearances may need to be reset at .010" for the intake and .014" for the exhaust. Furthermore, when a new or rebuilt engine needs to "break-in", what the term "break-in" actually means is the moving internal parts that make contact with each other needs to "wear-in" with each other so they'll produce a wear pattern and last longer. Any new or rebuilt engine, rather if it's for general lawn and garden use or for competition pulling, needs to fully break-in (wear-in) for it to produce full power. Rings don't "seat," they break-in (wear-in), or wear-in with the cylinder wall, and they wear-in quickly. But the valves are the parts that needs to "seat." Being the valve faces and seats have different angles (30º/31º or 45º/46º, respectively), the valve faces needs to wear into the seats to seal in the compression 100%. Wear-in will produce a 30½º or 45½º angle on both the matching valve face and seat. The harder material the valves are made of, the longer it takes for them to "seat" or wear-into the seats. Some pullers tell A-1 Miller's that the engines I built for them run better every time they pull them. I remember a few years ago when I performed a valve job on my truck engine. It ran good and produced plenty of power, but I noticed after about 1,000 or so miles, it produced a little more power. I realized that this is because the valve faces wore into the seats, forming a perfect seal. So again, a fresh-built pulling engine will not produce full power the first few times it's ran. Go here for more information: Valvoline.com FAQs Motor Oil Car Racing Oil. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website] |
NOTES:
- A general stock engine rebuild includes: completely disassemble entire engine, degrease, clean and inspect all parts, bore (if it needs it) or deglaze cylinder, install new piston/rings/pin/clips assembly, regrind crankshaft journal (if it needs it), install new undersize (.010") connecting rod or bore rod for undersize bearing inserts (.020" or .030"; if it needs it), regrind valves and seats, install new gaskets with silicone sealer to lesson oil leaks, install new ignition tune up components, resurface cylinder head (on large disc sander or wide, flat belt sander) to remove warpage and restore flatness, clean and rebuild carburetor, clean commutator and lubricate bushings in gear starter and whatever else the engine may need so it'll run well and last a long time.
- The engines I sell are turn key engines. I build all engines according to the customer's personal preferences for non-pulling purposes or to the customer's pulling association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements. "Build to the max" means engine will produce all the power possible and still remain stock-appearing externally. All of the above È will be performed in addition to the mild performance modifications.
- ± means more or less. This means if your engine needs minimal labor and/or machining, the price will be slightly less. But if it needs more than usual labor and/or machining, the price will be slightly higher. However, if it has sustained major internal damage or if it needs additional parts, extensive machine work and more labor, then the price will be even higher. And being I can't see your engine before you bring or send it to me, I can't honestly give an exact quote beforehand. But I'll treat you right and I'll try to keep the costs low as possible and still build you a quality engine so it'll start easy, produce full power and last a long time. The ± also depends on your personal preferences, parts needed and/or your pulling association/club sanctioning engine rules and requirements. Also, if you would like to provide some or all of the parts yourself, the price will be substantially lower.
- All rebuilt engines returned (shipped) to the customer come with a 90 day workmanship warranty from date of pickup or delivery.
Ship the Engine Securely Fastened Inside a Sturdy Wooden Crate - [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
Before shipping or bringing your engine to A-1 Miller's in person, I don't need everything on it. Just the parts that can wear and need rebuilding or reconditioning, such as the carburetor, fuel pump, gear starter, cylinder head and crankcase breather assembly. I'll need the oil pan on it too, to prevent any dust and dirt from entering the crankcase after the rebuild. I'll need the flywheel on the engine so I can set the ignition timing. Please remove all baffle shields (sheet metal) and the PTO clutch assembly, too. By the way - I can rebuild the Cub Cadet mechanical PTO clutch, too. I have a heavy duty 2-jaw gear puller that we use with a large C-clamp to remove/pull off the mechanical PTO clutch/pulley assembly from engines out of an IH Cub Cadet garden tractor. But sometimes these clutch/pulleys will not remove without breaking. I do all I can to try to prevent this from happening, but when they do break, I have no choice but to install a rebuilt PTO clutch/pulley assembly. I also made a special puller tool to remove the stamped steel PTO pulley/basket from the crankshaft without damage. Regular shop hours are 9:00 am - 5:00 pm, Monday-Friday. And we're open on weekends by appointment only. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. If you are traveling a great distance, it's best to call in advance (573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly) to make sure that I will be here when you plan to stop by. Please ship or bring your engine when you're ready to the address below. Ê
If you bring your engine to A-1 Miller's in person, place it in a medium size automotive tire to keep it from moving around during transportation. But if you decide to ship your engine to A-1 Miller's, first off, do not use the USPS, UPS or FedEx Express! We and our customers have had too many problems with these shippers in the past. Their clumsy, incompetent and uncaring "gorilla" workers have a tendency to damage heavy items, and the shipping company's insurance never pay off. The shipping company claim that the damaged item, which was in their possession, is "not their fault." They are very careless with heavy packages when they handle them. The packages are placed on conveyor-belt systems and they seem to always drop the heavy ones off of the elevated conveyors, which usually destroys whatever is inside them. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.)
If shipping an engine, and if the crated engine weighs no more than 150 lbs., use only Fastenal or FedEx Ground for dependability. The average crated cast iron block Kohler engine weighs just under 150 lbs. Use this website to calculate the shipping cost for your engine: FedEx Rates and Transit Times. Contact your local Fastenal or FedEx Ground shipping center for more details and to schedule a pickup or drop off the crated engine at your local Fastenal or FedEx Ground shipping center. Fastenal and FedEx Ground are the only reasonably-priced shipping service that I know of for items up to 150 lbs. US Mail only ship up to 70 lbs. And FedEx Freight would cost almost as much as an engine is worth. If your engine is too heavy to go with FedEx Ground, partially disassemble it and send the lightweight parts in a USPS Large or Medium Flat Rate Box, and then send the main short block with FedEx Ground, the crated engine can be shipped through Fastenal. This also works better to save money on shipping costs. You can visit A-1 Miller's shop to drop off and pick up your engine(s) to save on crating and shipping charges.
Do not use a cardboard box alone the ship a heavy engine! Crate it well and any other parts with it securely so they won't get damaged or lost in shipping. A sturdy and well-constructed wooden crate can be ordered from: Crates, Wooden Crate in Stock - ULINE. But to construct your own sturdy wooden shipping crate, use 2x2's or 2x4's lumber for the frame work, with 1/4" plywood or 1/2" chipboard as outer covering (do not use cardboard for covering because another person's package could penetrate it and cause damage the engine inside), and a couple of 2x4's or a cut-down shipping pallet on the bottom so a forklift can move it without damage. Make the crate compact as possible so it'll take up less space, save on shipping charges and so it'll be easier to move around in our shop. Fasten the engine oil pan mounting bolt holes to two sturdy 2x4's on the base of the crate securely with 3/8" diameter bolts with wide flat washers. It's also very important to install 2x4 wood bracing all around the engine cylinder (front, rear and each side) stabilize it in the crate. And for easy engine removal, PLEASE use Phillips head drywall/sheetrock screws or better yet, use hex head 1/4" lag bolts w/flat washers to fasten everything on and in the crate. Be sure to include a note in a sealed plastic bag with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number, email address (in case I have any questions) and a detailed description of how you want the engine built and what it will be used for, and mention in the note any other parts you may need.
When the work is completed, I'll contact you with the total including return shipping & handling. For payment options for parts ordered or services performed, or to make a donation to my websites, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. (If the engine is for a specific purpose and parts must be special ordered, full payment will be required right after your order is placed or your debit/credit card will be charged for the full amount or as a deposit.) Or you can pay A-1 Miller's through PayPal. My PayPal account name is my email address, and be sure to mention in PayPal a description of what the payment is for. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number and a description of what the payment is for. My mailing address and phone number are below Ê. And I will ship your rebuilt engine/parts to you as soon as I receive your payment.
To ship a transaxle, this is easier. They don't require an enclosed crate. Just place the transaxle on the center of a shipping pallet (of the appropriate size) and stretch wrap (use low-cost ratchet nylon tie-downs) to securely fasten it to the pallet. Use at least 6 layers of stretch wrap or several tie-downs. This should work really well. The shipping weight of a Cub Cadet cast iron case transaxle when strapped to a wooden pallet is approximately 215 lbs. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
Click Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available Soon )
To place an order and/or for FREE professional and honest technical assistance and support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO (Missouri) 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell; text or when leaving a voice message, please speak slowly and clearly). Payment Options. Please call Monday-Friday, except holidays, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. Please call, text or email me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's shop to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine parts, entire engine, transmission, transaxle, entire garden tractor, etc. for repairing and/or rebuilding. "The road to a friend's house (or shop) is never long." (We're planning to relocate our business to other property with a bigger and better shop so we can provide many more high quality parts and professional services.) [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]
Payment Options and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.
My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, for payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge), Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number below. To make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.me/PullingTractor. Please use the "Friends and Family" option, or add 3% to the total amount to cover PayPal's processing surcharge. Or to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com) in the US through the Venmo app, please click this link: venmo.com. Or use Cash App to make a payment to me (pullingtractor@aol.com). And be sure to mention in PayPal, Venmo or Cash App a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything on your list to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.
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Does Anyone Still Make A Garden Tractor
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